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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Thor amboinensis
Friday, February 24, 2012 8:11 PM
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 Originally Posted by EasterEggs Woohoo! You can store decapped eggs in the fridge for weeks too, so you can decap quite a few on each go. Just mix enough saltwater to cover the eggs plus 1/2" or so, and then mix as much salt mix as you can into the saltwater to the point when it doesn't really want to dissolve anymore. Pour that over the decapped eggs and they will last at least a month.
What makes you think the BS are dying? Why would they die when the shrimp larvae are still living? Starvation? It's a decent question, I just haven't looked into it so far. Quick update... I had another female release larvae last night. They seem to really prefer releasing at night. Anyway, I now have something like 100+ larvae in the kreisel. Woohoo!  Also, my ammonia alert is edging up again, but my saltwater just started mixing and it needs another 24 hours to off gas. Lets hope they can wait a day.
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Thor amboinensis
Saturday, February 25, 2012 4:42 PM
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Yes, starvation would cause death of the BS. Have you considered also adding either live or preserved phyto to feed the BS? Easier to just remove them though... using half starved BS couldn't be very nutritious.
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Thor amboinensis
Sunday, February 26, 2012 12:01 AM
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Size matters.  I assume they're starving, but I haven't looked into it because it makes more sense to hatch daily anyway. Freshly hatched BBS are not only more nutritious, but easier for the larvae to catch and hang on to. While supplementing the BBS is certainly a clever idea, the fact is, once I've moved onto cultures such as rotifers, I'll just use them to feed the larvae directly. BBS are just a starting point for me, because they're easier and less prone to crash. Also, you have to realize, I'm running a continuous system. If the BBS didn't die of starvation, they'd eventually die of old age. My breeder produce a new clutch of larvae before the previous clutch dies off, thus I'm continually adding new larvae to the kreisel without a reset. At the moment, I'm not bothering to remove the BBS. Instead, I'm bringing my sand bed up to speed so the bacteria can eat it all. Today I had to do a 50% water change tho, so it's not up to speed just yet. What is actually of greater concern to me is that it's driving algae growth inside the kreisel drum. The Chaeto in the fuge is supposed to take care of that, but with this much nitrification taking place, the light fixture is insufficient for the Chaeto to absorb it all. I'm developing a real dislike of normal-output T5 fixtures. :/
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Thor amboinensis
Sunday, February 26, 2012 8:55 AM
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Daily bottom siphoning to remove dead BS? Sorry if I already posted this, but have you seen this? Broodstock and Larval Nutrition of Marine Ornamental Shrimp by Junda Lin, Dong Zhang and Andrew L. Rhyne. Btw, Rhyne is "spawner" on MOFIB. I don't think it mentions Sexy shrimp, though it is something to go on.
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Thor amboinensis
Sunday, March 18, 2012 8:51 PM
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22 days post hatch, 2 larvae remaining. The Good TrueLumen Pro 8000K 24" LED x2   At 3 LEDs & 1 watt per inch, this thing is brighter than T5-HO or even PCs of equivalent length. I could probably get by with just one, but why not two? I've lashed them together with some eggcrate and fishing line.  Yep, this will finally give my stunted Chaeto ample light in the fuge and stop that annoying algae from growing inside the kreisel. About that algae... The Bad  It's ugly, invasive, wiry, and fast growing. It seems to require next to no light and creeps across surfaces with a web of ivy like "roots" that cling. It doesn't come off easily and always leaves some "roots" behind. It's terrible. Ahh... but now I can relax, confident in the knowledge that my new LEDs will --Hey! How'd that cute little jelly fish get in here? Huh... time to take a closer look at that algae... {click}  That can't be right. Lets try video... The Beautiful  Colonial Hydroids Hydroid Medusa Hydroids can sting and kill the larvae. They're also competing for the same food supply: baby brine shrimp. They have a complex life cycle and can go dormant, making them near impossible to erradicate.  Narg... only two known methods for killing these things. One only works half the time and the other entails significant consequences. Heat treatment Link
Originally Posted by Some types of hydroids can be eradicated from the aquarium by raising the water temperature to 92°F or above for period of 3-5 days (Liisa Coit, pers. com.). Keep all of the filters and equipment operating so that the hot water circulates throughout them and destroys any hydroids or hydromedusae that may be present in the filtration system. (Seahorses and their tankmates, including snails and the cleanup crew, must be removed to a temporary holding tank while the heat treatment is carried out.) Maintaining the water temperature at 92° for this period does not harm the beneficial nitrifying bacteria in your biofilter, injure marine plants or macroalgae, or kill off copepods and other beneficial microfauna (Liisa Coit, pers.com.).
After the treatment period, perform a large water change to assure that the die off of hydroids does not degrade your water quality, and adjust the water temperature back to normal, and all the animals can be returned to the aquarium. The tank will not undergo a "mini cycle" and there will be no ammonia or nitrite spikes (Liisa Coit, pers. com.).
However, not all types of hydroids respond to the heat treatment method of eradication. The snowflake type of hydroids that are all too common seem to have no difficulty surviving the heat treatment. So generally speaking, then Panacur is a more reliable way to eliminate them. Some folks might describe the snowflake type of hydroids as "fuzzy starfish," in which case the heat treatment may not be effective. If you're fuzzy hydroids do not resemble snowflakes, then there is an decent chance that the heat treatment will be effective. Panacur Link
Originally Posted by Your best weapon against hydroids is a drug called Fenbendazole (Panacur). However, you should familiarize yourself thoroughly with this drug before using, or better yet, talk to your veterinarian first. Reeftools and its colleagues can not be held responsible for any result of you reading this blog and using Fenbendazole. Personally, I’ve used this drug safely with dwarf seahorses and Fundulus heteroclitus Killifish. I’ve read that it can be safely used with other fish fry such as Clownfish. In low doses it can be safe for clean up crews such as Nassarius snails, cleaner shrimp, and hermit crabs. Be careful and do lots of research before using Fenbendazole.
Any living creatures or plants you want to add to your dwarf seahorse or fry tank should be treated with Fenbendazole first. Keep in mind, most invertebrates and corals DO NOT tolerate Fenbendazole and will die. Macroalgae such as Caulerpa and Chaetomorpha as well as the beneficial nitrifying bacteria in live rock handle treatment with the drug very well. Fenbendazole is by no stretch of the imagination considered to be reef safe. So don’t dose your reef tank with this stuff. Fenbendazole also tends to absorb into glass and rock, leaching into your tank forever. The granules seem to leach worse than the liquid does. The Ugly On March 9th, I had my largest larvae hatch yet! 100+. Too bad I didn't have a good home for them and had to let them go. :/ 0 days post hatch ...and for comparison... 22 days post hatch The magnification is the same at the beginning of both videos. As we can see, there is a significant difference in size and a few structural changes. I put the 22-day-old back in the kreisel and he seems fine, but for how long?  Moving On Think I'll try the heat treatment first. :]
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Thor amboinensis
Tuesday, May 15, 2012 7:12 PM
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Originally Posted by NancyC
Look at that! This is the kind of thread I really enjoy stumbling upon. Subscribed.
You're too kind.  Link
Originally Posted by pj86
You are making great progress. Any updates?
Nothing useful.  Link
Originally Posted by ShrimpyPooh why,
im a little concerned about the state of my females eggs. im begining to think they r duds. can females carry eggs that arent fertilized?. most of the eggs seem light in color to whitish for my liking and im not entirely sure i see any babies in them. sometimes i think i see a little dot in some but for the most part nothing really. have u had any experience with this happening?. i noticed them carrying the eggs on 4/22 and today is the 26th. could they just not be very far along yet thats why im not really seeing anything yet?. i hear they carrying the eggs around 2-3 weeks?. That's an excellent question, but I'm guessing probably not. I've had females produce very small clutches before, but no obvious duds. I've also heard of females ejecting their eggs early when they give up on them. So if they're still tucked away and swelling up, they'll probably hatch. Takes about two weeks. Here's a decent resource for times, durations, and ETAs: PJ86's Thor Amboinensis Breeding Journal I haven't had the opportunity to look at an egg under the scope, but I have gotten a look thru the tank glass with my micronta hand held. Occasionally a female will adjust and rotate the eggs, lifting them one at a time. They are in fact mostly transparent, but appear red while tucked under the tail. They start out mostly round with a pair of black dots for eyes and elongate into an oval as they grow. By the time they're ready to pop, they look like shrink-wrapped pollywogs.  *Note: throughout this thread I have accidentally transposed the first 'o' and 'i' in "amboinensis". As some of these typos appear in photo or video, they can no longer be corrected. Link
Originally Posted by chippwalters
Yup. Fascinating stuff! Following along...
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Originally Posted by ShrimpyPooh cool, thanks for the info. their bottoms do appear to be getting fatter. i think they r just not as far along thats why i cant see the actual babies inside yet. i do have another question. i plan on adding my brine shrimp eggs directly into my babies tank, do u for see any problems with this?. i know everyone seems to have a seperate hatchery for the brine but i dont really see the need for it. im trying to do things the cheapest easiest way. the only thing i can think of by doing it this way is maybe increasing the waste load but if i siphon the shells out often i think it should be good. thoughts on this please. Link
Originally Posted by Degener8
the egg casings will foul the water.. bad idea in every direction.. unless you are planning to use decapsulated brine.. then you just have to worry about anything that actually doesnt hatch fouling the water.. imo still a bad idea to add either directly to the rearing tank.
Use a hatchery. Or better yet, use two. Here is a tutorial for what I use, tho it actually works better with identical 1-liter bottles, if you can find them: Triple 2-Liter Plankton Reactor Tutorial. You want to feed freshly hatched baby brine shrimp every 12 hours, but it takes 24 for the eggs to hatch, so you need to run two hatcheries simultaneously. Older BBS are not as nutritious and harder for the larvae to catch. Consider decapsulating the brine shrimp eggs, or buy them decapsulated. There's more than one good reason to do so. Also, do a little reading on colonial hydroids. You'll find a lot of references to "dwarf seahorse" tanks. Read them, because they're relevant. Colonial hydroids are easily the second greatest barrier to success. What's the first? Feeding BBS every 12 hours, every single day, over and over, until you want to puke. Pro Tip: learn to like it. Have you started a thread? Please link it. Link
Originally Posted by ShrimpyPooh well bad news i guess the eggs must have been duds afterall cause one of my girls shed and her eggs r needless to say gone now and the other one doesnt appear to be carrying anymore either, :/ very strange. but i guess for the best cause looks like ill be needing to save up some money for hacthing bbs equipment. i really was hoping to just add them to the fry tank and just clean the shells out everyday to save on some money...still might try it that way though we'll see. Link
Originally Posted by ShrimpyPooh
o and at the store around here sells that San Francisco Bay Brine Shrimp Hatchery for 15$!!! can u believe that. thats why i didnt want to buy that and plus the air pump and they told me a heater as well cause the water needs to be at 80degrees for the eggs to hatch... is that true or will they hatch at a lower heat i know it says on packet but wanted to see from yer experence. how many time have yer sexy shrimp bred succesfully?
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Originally Posted by bizzarro
Look up something called Artemia hatchery dish for hatching brine. I haven't tried it myself but favorable reviews on it.
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Originally Posted by altolamprologus You mean this? It hatches brine so well I swear it's witchcraft. I highly recommend it. Link
Originally Posted by bizzarro Link
Originally Posted by ShrimpyPooh
wow that seems like the best and easiest way by far!. will have to look into it more. just discovered one of the females has eggs again i dont know whats going on. ididnt know they could lay more eggs this fast
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Originally Posted by ShrimpyPooh
has anyone experienced their sexy shrimp eating their own eggs?. im 98% positive i saw mine eat some of hers today. i also dont think they r getting fertilized is it possible she is producing eggs but the male isnt fertillzing them? im
It's possible they were fertilized but then abandoned for some other reason. Link
Originally Posted by ShrimpyPooh
looks like i see little black eyes in my eggs, hopefully the girls will carry them all the way
Link
Originally Posted by iprayforwaves
Tagging along, I've got 4 sexies in my EcoPico and never thought to look for eggs!
How many male and female?
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Thor amboinensis
Tuesday, May 15, 2012 7:14 PM
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Well it's been 8 weeks since I stopped adding BBS to the kreisel and started experimenting with the hydroids. Here is what I have tried so far, in chronological order. Heat Treatment (93 degrees for 1wk)... fail! Flatworm-Exit (2x dosage for 24hr)... fail! Ammonia Spike (~0.2ppm)... fail! Cold Treatment (68 degrees for 1wk)... fail! Starvation (no food for 8wk)... fail! I refuse to use fenbendazole (aka: Panacur) because it absorbs into then leaches out of rock and glass indefinitely. While this may be acceptable for some types of larvae (ie: dwarf seahorse), it can still prove fatal to many others. And tho Thor amboinensis are a resilient species, Chelidonura varians are not. There is simply no way to predict what effect fenbendazole might have on BVN larvae later on in my research. I could potentially discover the BVN cue and still fail to settle the larvae due to the presence of fenbendazole leaching from the glass. Worse still, I'd never know it. :/ Recently, hobbyists have been experimenting with alternative dewormers, such as flubendazole and levamisole, but they all seem to suffer from similar issues to a greater or lesser extent. Thus their use is unacceptable for my research, with one possible exception: flatworm-exit. No one is entirely certain what the active ingredient in flatworm-exit is, but there is reason to believe it too is a dewormer. There is scant evidence of FWE successfully treating hydroids, but at recommended levels it is considered to be mostly reef safe and does not leach into and out of rock and glass. Thus whatever it is and for whatever it's worth, I consider it safe for experimentation up to 2x dosage. The cold treatment wasn't really intentional; my heater died. Due to recent issues with quality control, I no longer recommend Finnex titanium heaters. So.... results? None to speak of. While there is some suggestion that FWE may kill the medusa, nothing has had a significant impact on the hydroid colony itself. It's skinny, but healthy and moving. Narg... :/ In a word: one-tough-son-of-a-bitch!
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Thor amboinensis
Wednesday, May 23, 2012 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by pj86
Take all the water out and let it dry.
I like the suggestion. I'm wondering tho, other recommendations I've seen include a full sterilization of the system. If hydroids can hitch a ride on dehydrated brine shrimp eggs, then could they not hitch a ride on dry sand? The colony itself doesn't appear to lurk too deep, but I worry about the eggs and possibly the planula larvae. If I sterilize, then I'll probably use vinegar, but that'll mean restarting my biocycle. It's not that big of a deal, but without a more effective means of avoiding hydroids in the first place, it essentially renders my DSB non-functional. It will always get reinfected before it gets up to speed. That said, I'm not sure it was destined to be a functional DSB in the first place, as my choice of sand and the limit of its depth appears to fully lend itself to nitrification. At least, that's what the colors tell me. And honestly, it's probably better this way. The more I think about it, the less important denitrification seems. I had simply hoped to provide as complete of a biotope as possible, but the pure nitrifying capacity sure was nice. Only needed water changes weekly. Anyway, I'm not disappointed with anything. As I've mentioned before, so long as I experiment in the ways I know I want to, I am always pleased with my results. It is not my expectation to find the magic cure for hydroids. When I experiment, I simply like to start from scratch and assume as little as possible. Thus I find it useful to better understand the "wrong" approach before making any determinations about the "right" one. As far as I'm concerned, the hydroids have been half the fun. They really are interesting. If someone could breed phosphorescent hydroids, I'm pretty sure they'd be a popular coral. I don't suppose you know much about gene splicing? Can you point me to a good DIY? After I sterilize, I'll switch to decaped eggs only. I'm curious to see if there is any difference in time to infection. A repeat with similar timelines would suggest the breeder water is the true source of infection and not the eggs. Tho I have since developed a bit of a theory on this and intend to test what I believe to be the critical threshold violator. Which is to say that I believe several things contribute to hydroid infestation, but that there is one particular part of the process that's tilting things in the hydroid's favor. But for the moment, it's just a hunch. Link
Originally Posted by Spencer7
Read whole thread and I am relatively speechless,what intially comes to mind is something like...
dat #### cray
Advice Attempt
Use your super siphon (1mm opening) to suck up individuals...
Dry out Kreisel
Disconnect from system and do a super high iodine dose (guessing here)
For motivation look back at your old posts, and inspirational threads to try and re kindle some of that enthuasism/commitment, if you want it enough it will happen
Originally Posted by Spencer7
For motivation look back at your old posts, and inspirational threads Is it over indulgent of me to appreciate this advice most?
Originally Posted by Spencer7 if you want it enough it will happen Never said I didn't. If I appear to have a lack of enthusiasm at the moment, it's because my wife and I have been looking at property and it's been taking up our weekends. Anyway, it's been a nice break from the brine while I consider my next steps and how I might wish to refine my process before restarting it. Thank you for reading and joining the thread. Advice is always welcome, just often argued with. It's kinda my thing.
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Thor amboinensis
Wednesday, May 23, 2012 11:22 PM
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Thor amboinensis
Thursday, May 24, 2012 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by altolamprologus Black scutus?
 Link
Originally Posted by altolamprologus B) Link
Originally Posted by ShrimpyPooh
why!!!!!!
why o why wont my sexy shrimp eggs mature? lol
this is their 3rd batch i think and they look like they r gonna fail yet again. everyone makes it sound so easy. just throw in a male and female and bingo. yet my eggs never seem to develop fully. i see all these pics of the girls bottom bursting with full fat eggs with babies clearly visible in inside them but my girls never look like that. i actually saw what appeared to be eyes in this last failed batch and was gonna put the female in my fry tank but that night she ditched them. if the eggs werent fertilized properly u think their eggs/butt wouldnt get bigger but they do and they carry them for about the full time 12-14 or so days right? tomorrow will be the 12th day but the eggs just dont seem fully formed to me.
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Originally Posted by mbonus keyhole limpet  Would you believe.... Link
Originally Posted by Ronald L. Shimek Additionally, there are some limpets that generally do not graze on algae. The ones that we are primarily concerned about are the keyhole and slit limpets. These are limpet-shaped snails with a perforation on the top of the shell (keyhole limpets) or a slit on the front shell margins (slit limpets). These animals are generally carnivorous, and will eat sponges, soft corals, and other sessile animals. I have not heard of any specific reports of them eating stony corals, but I suspect that they would. Some of them, however, may be very useful for the control of some low growing colonial nuisance hydroids. Unfortunately, little work has investigated the specific diets of tropical keyhole limpets, so we don't know the names of any beneficial species. Link
Originally Posted by Keyhole Limpet snails – Diodora is the most common
Distribution: Most are from Baja California
Water condition: 72-78ºF, sg 1.025, pH 8.1-8.4
Active time: Nocturnal
Size: up to 3 in.
Diet: Herbivore
Zone: Most like rocks, but will sometimes congregate at the sand line on the glass and they will clean below the sand line.
Pros: They are great for eating hydroids and will also feed upon all forms of microalgae.
Cons: They have been known to sometimes graze on Acropora, Montipora and other similar species.
Additional information: There are dozens of different keyhole limpets in the hobby and close to 200 species in total. They come from all over the world but Diodora is probably the most common genus. Why have I not heard of these before? I feel like I just rediscovered some lost secret of the ancients. Not the easiest thing to get a hold of however: LiveAquaria Keyhold Limpets.
<message edited by Whys Alives on Friday, May 25, 2012 1:53 AM>
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Thor amboinensis
Saturday, May 26, 2012 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by altolamprologus
Whoa great find! I hope you are able to locate a source for them. It'll be interesting to see how well they work against hydroids
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Originally Posted by mbonus
There was a guy in one of my local forums that had what he was calling keyhole limpets but were also id-ed as shield limpets. Not sure if it the species you are looking for. I'll hit him up with a pm and see if he is interested in providing a couple for the research.
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Originally Posted by Mr Pants It might be worth asking the reefcleaners guys if they could get a hold of keyhole limpets since they carry another limpet. Link
Originally Posted by mbonus
This, john will have a much better idea on availability...
 
<message edited by Whys Alives on Saturday, May 26, 2012 1:53 PM>
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Thor amboinensis
Saturday, May 26, 2012 3:18 PM
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Well I managed to get a more complete reply and this is what they said...
Originally Posted by ReefCleaners We just don't carry them. We come across them, but I don't sell them. They also seemed unconvinced that they would eat hydroids, so I sent them the link.
Originally Posted by ReefCleaners Best of luck. We have sent them before didn't work. Now trying floridapets.com, since they were suggested in an old related thread I found on the subject.
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Thor amboinensis
Monday, May 28, 2012 1:30 AM
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Originally Posted by FloridaPets Ryan, thank you for your email. We understand your situation. We were able to procure Keyhole limpets in the past. Recently, they do not appear to be as readily available. We do know that they are in demand and we are continually on the lookout. Ryan, we will keep your email and look forward to getting back to you with their availability. This sounds promising. In the mean time, I have found a single species currently for sale: Diodora cayenensis It's a start. :]
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Thor amboinensis
Saturday, June 2, 2012 3:32 AM
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Yarrr.... maties!
If ye just be wake'n up, then savvy you didn't look it in the eye. A horrible sea creature it was. Entangled this vessel and left her adrift for days. I'ved but tooth'n nail, stabbing in the dark until...
Now we can open our eyes!
...tho be it completely off the map.
Set sail! There be a keyhole to treasure and we need only find the key!
There are approximately 200 different species of keyhole limpet. One or more of these species will eat colonial hydroids. It is not known which. Worse still, most are near impossible to obtain. I currently have 4 Diodora cayenensis purchased from livebrineshrimp.com  Do they eat colonial hydroids?  No idea, but she's all shined up and ready to roll. I started sterilizing the system before finding the limpets, so we'll have to wait to see. In the mean time... My Sterilization Procedure: - Sterilized the equipment and tools with vinegar.
- Disposed of the old sand.
- Mildly pressure washed the system with a garden hose.
- Spot cleaned the system with vinegar.
- 14g ro/di & 1L chlorine bleach run in the system for 2.5 hours.
- Rinsed system with garden hose and allowed to sun dry.
- 14g ro/di & 500 drops dechlorinator run in the system for 2+ hours.
- Washed the new sand with ro/di.
- 2.5g ro/di & 150mL chlorine bleach in the new sand, stirred every hour for 2 hours and left covered.
- Rinsed the new sand thoroughly with 2.5g ro/di.
- 2.5g ro/di & 100 drops dechloriniator in the new sand, stirred every hour for 2 hours.
- Rinsed the new sand thoroughly with 2.5g of freshly mixed saltwater.
 May 30, I seeded the sterile sand with frozen mysis and good old fashioned Saltwater Biozyme. 
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Thor amboinensis
Saturday, June 2, 2012 9:11 AM
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- Brandon AKA Jedi Knight
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Thor amboinensis
Friday, December 28, 2012 6:20 AM
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Happy Holidays everyone!  Hang on to your Santa hats, we had one crazy Christmas party...  Things started out ordinary enough: a little eggnog, a little mistletoe. And of course, Amber was her usual bubbly self --but then it happened. I don't know who brought it, but she was clearly on it. Amber got dark, became hysterical, and ripped her top off! She was frothing and spitting up everywhere, rambling about her past, about getting infected, becoming sterilized, and not having anymore babies. Only Jade could finally calm her down, but long story short... Now the whole house reeks of bleach.   Turns out Amber has a daughter: Crystal. Jade gave her a call, and as luck would have it, her and her girlfriend Misty needed a place to crash. Yeah, she's a bit of a drifter -- just like her mom -- but I've found with a little structure, she settles right in. Here they are trying out my new hot tub!   Misty is the red-head. Now I know what you're thinking and you can say what you want, but at half the size, I still find these two attractive.  Also.... I would like to take this post Christmas oppertunity to appologize... ...to this man here.  If you've clicked the images near the beginning of this project, you'll see I've had a bit of fun at his expense. I don't apologize for the humor mind you; it's valid. But I do apologize for not adding that he and I have a couple of important things in common. One, we share a love of plastics. And two, we both intimately understand that there is no separating one's life-philosophy from one's life-work. ---------- I've read a lot of different recommendations for decapsulating brine shrimp eggs, with regards to duration and concentration of the acid bath. So I decided to run some tests of my own. I first hydrated the eggs for an hour in fresh water. I then prepared a 100% concentration and laid out 9 containers of fresh water. After each minute interval I removed a small sample of eggs and dropped them in a container of fresh water. I then inspected the samples under the scope.  In chronological order from zero to nine minutes.  Unfortunately, I was hoping for something more conclusive. I really don't see much difference after the first minute. Tho at the end, I did notice a thick raw-egg-yolk like consistency to the mixture and very few of the final eggs actually hatched. I think I'll rerun this test for one, two, three, and four minutes intervals, then test hatch results for each.
<message edited by Whys Alives on Friday, December 28, 2012 7:04 AM>
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Thor amboinensis
Friday, December 28, 2012 9:39 AM
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You're still plugging away at this project, eh? You're very determined.
Don't let fear and common sense stop you! =]
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Thor amboinensis
Friday, December 28, 2012 6:33 PM
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Perhaps. Or maybe I'm just always exactly where it is I want to be. Thank you for following.
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Thor amboinensis
Thursday, January 10, 2013 3:54 AM
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Link
Originally Posted by
When I was raising freshwater fish we used to breed angelfish. Hydroids would be a problem since they would eat fry. I was told that running current through the tank would kill hydroids pretty effectively without harming your bacterial population. You could take a big old 12v battery connect two wires up and plop them in the tank, inhabitants removed for safety, and treat the tank for 15 minutes increments for several days. Supposedly this interrupted the lifecycle of hydroids since the medusa stage could not survive the electrical current. We did this on our breeder tank a few times and it seemed to work. I'm not sure how it would apply to saltwater hydroids though.
 Shocking! Now it's time for a little segment, I like to call:  Okay fellas, here it is. That's a 250-micron nylon-mesh cylinder with a PVC coupler on one end, a PVC end-cap on the other, and a rubber plug plugging a quarter inch h ole on the end of the end-cap.  What is it? 
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Thor amboinensis
Friday, January 11, 2013 1:25 AM
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Pelagic egg/larvae collector to be inserted in the overflow pipe and kept under the sump( or collection container) water line.
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