Breeding Journal, Species: Thor amboinensis

Umm_Fish, I still think that BBS is the way to go with sexy shrimp. My BBS lasted about 10-12 days in the breeding tank without dying and that is almost half way to settlement for sexy shrimp. I rarely saw the sexy shrimp not have a BBS in their mouths.
Also, I did start off with newly made saltwater and then added tank water slowly for about a week. It was about till 16-17 days that I saw very small hydroids (2-3), the sexy shrimp were a few days from settlement.
In other words, these larva are very hardy compared to other larva I have read about, and will tolerate a wider range of variables.

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I recently received an AmScope with digital camera as a gift.  It has been distracting me from my kreisel, but now the camera is broken, so its back to the kreisel until I get that figured out.

This is my scope net, pick a thread: :]
http://www.mbisite.org/Forums/tm.aspx?m=51694
http://www.reefkeepingfor....php/topic,1820.0.html
http://www.nano-reef.com/...x.php?showtopic=267862

I've made a few incisions on the jug for the loc-line outlets and will probably glue them in place today.  Then I'll run a few tests before deciding the precise shape and placement of the screen separator.

That reminds me, what micron do I need for sexy-shrimp larvae and what micron for BVN larvae?
 
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Excellent advice, thank you.  Since my brood tank might be part of the system, I could rely on its shallow sand bed for the nitrifying bacteria and perform partial water changes with freshly mixed saltwater.  But from what I've read from others, mature tank water can contain a lot of beneficial cues for egg release, etc.

I wonder if it would be possible for me to actually inspect a small vial of water with my microscope to ensure no pests, then add that to the tank for any benefits all the little diatoms and what not might provide.  It would be interesting to see if even just a few drops of mature tank water could do the trick.

The lowest power lens is a 4/0.1.  At that magnification, I should be able to see anything harmful, correct?

©2013 Ryan F. Mercer -All Rights Reserved.
          === TREASURE HUNT ===

Whys Alive, still think it would be really difficult to inspect the whole vile of water for any pest. So how are you advancing with the project? When are you going to purchase the mature sexy shrimp?

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I think what you meant to say was...
 
Newly hatched Sexy-Shrimp larvae are approximately 2mm in size.  That equals 2000 microns.  Based on the picture you've provided, newly hatched larvae appear to be no more than 5 times longer than they are wide.  Thus my mesh should be no larger than 400 microns.
 
Sorry jayelblock, you might lose a few of the smallest ones using 500 micron mesh.  I don't think jelliquariums were designed with sexy-shrimp in mind.

I've obtained a large tube of REEF-SAFE silicon glue.  It seems the hardware stores here no longer stock aquarium silicon, so I'm using GE 1 (no bioseal or anti-fungal).  I wanted to glue some things together tonight, but now it's late.  It will also require 48 hours to dry, so....

Patience is a virtue.

©2013 Ryan F. Mercer -All Rights Reserved.
          === TREASURE HUNT ===

I would be careful with the mess, considering the sexy shrimps appendages are much smaller. To be on the safe side purchase 3 different micron sizes and see which one doesn't cause them to get stuck.

 
This is a larval rearing tank, right? Eggs should be released already. Really, the biggest larval killers are water quality and pests. I understand how using mature water cuts down on the water quality issues, but it also opens you to a world of hurt on the pests. Just be careful, yeah? My solution is just to take care that the larvae are going into already matured and cycled water that has less chance of introducing pests. I _know_ that my brood water has hydroids, so I don't dare introduce that to a larval tank.
 
I guess that you could run your brood water through a 1 micron screen. Theoretically that should take care of the pest issues.

--Andy, the bucket man.
"Not to know the mandolin is to argue oneself unknown...." --Clara Lanza, 1886

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In a word:  Beauty.

Is it possible for a kreisel to be too gentle?  I just did my final pre-glue flow test.  I don't even have the screen in yet and the tiny bits of chaeto float right by the opening as if there wasn't even an opening there.  Those that stray, appear to doubt themselves and float back to rejoin the others.

I would give a video, but it is of little use with my PowerShot.  I will say this tho.  Once all the little bubbles finally floated free of the drum, there were no deviant upwellings or cross currents.  I honestly could not ask for a better result.

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Amazon has a great selection of micron meshes to choose from.  They come in polypropylene, nylon, and polyester.  I chose nylon for its strength and resistance to deformity.  Note: polypropylene is buoyant in fresh water.  I bought both 425 and 250 micron.

I bought the 250 mostly for the BVN portion of this project.  Not that I know what micron I need for BVN larvae, I just figured 250 was as small as I wanted to go with regards to detritus inside the kreisel.  I couldn't actually find the size of newly hatched BVN anywhere on the internet.  I'll have to measure them later to force a defined state.

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I had the same thought after seeing it on Amazon, but I'd still be worried about pathogens, so.... mature water can wait.

The kreisel will probably be in system with the brood tank however, and I wanted to put a small frog spawn in there with the shrimp.  Would it be safe after a dip in coralRX?

Anyway, thanks for hanging in there while I've been busy.  This project is really only one of several incredibly wonderful things going on in my life right now.  Some might even say I'm blessed. :]

©2013 Ryan F. Mercer -All Rights Reserved.
          === TREASURE HUNT ===

I can't wait to see pictures of your kreisel in action.  Congratulations on a well-executed design, and I'm pleased to hear that your life beyond reef keeping is so satisfying as well.  All things in balance...

Congratulations on getting it working! If you are going to have this on a broodstock system, I would at least filter the water before it gets to the kreisel. There'll be tons of detritus in the broodstock water (if not initially then eventually) and you don't want to clog the kreisel. The planktonic forms of some hydroids are _tiny_ though. (I have a video around somewhere that's probably a hydroid medusa if you'd like to see it.) From what I recall, much smaller than a rotifer, so you won't be stopping those with any screen that doesn't need to be changed very, very often.
 
I have no clue what size BVN are. They have veliger larvae, though, just like snails. If they feed in the planktonic stage (if they _have_ a planktonic stage), I would assume that it'll be on phytoplankton of some type. So, I would assume that you are going to need to fill (and retain) a lot of phyto in that kreisel while they are planktonic. On the other hand, slugs like Berghia don't feed while planktonic so you might luck out there. But I would plan for the ability to isolate the kreisel tank from the rest of the system so that you can just turn that tank dark green (or brown) with phyto when necessary. You wouldn't want to include your broodstock tank in that.
 
Again, I'd like to urge you to consider keeping your two systems separate. In the ocean, all these larvae are way up near the top of the water column, far away from any solid surfaces where filter predators would live. You can't replicate that. You are designing the perfect home for small filter feeders and larvae count as good food for them.

--Andy, the bucket man.
"Not to know the mandolin is to argue oneself unknown...." --Clara Lanza, 1886

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Indeed.
 
I recently purchased a 2.5g glass tank for the breeder, from a national chain that I will not name.  While there, I picked up a couple things I want to share with you.
 
One:


I thought it might be handy to have a smaller tube of silicon for gluing in the screen.  I have seen this tube before and assumed it was clear.  It's BLACK.  Interestingly, it says no where on the tube that it is black.  Perhaps it mentioned it on the blister pack it came in.  I do not know.

Two:
While collecting my supplies, I took a look in their saltwater aquariums.  One tank contained a Chocolate Chip Sea Star.  It was on it's back, lying on the sand, all arms curled back, and contents spilling from its mouth.  I informed the attendant that unless they were feeding it to a Harlequin Shrimp, then it was a casualty that needed removing.  The attendant thanked me for noticing, proceeded to flip it over, then said "It fine, it just fell off the glass."  While these sort of stories are not new for that chain, I can only hope Hitler and those like him have been continuously reincarnated as the spineless inverts in their tanks.

Just so you know. :]

Also, here's some help when cutting nylon mesh.



You can't mark it with pencil and you probably shouldn't mark it with marker.  So draw the lines you need on a sheet of card stock, tape it down, then lay your mesh over your outline and tape down the corners.  Now you can cut your pattern with a box knife.  Note: do not use any portion of the mesh that came into contact with the tape; adhesives can be toxic.
 
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I knew you've been holding out on me.  Thank you!
 
--------------------
 
I know the photos above probably aren't the ones (note: now there's a funny word.) you were hoping for.  So allow me to reiterate.  This is not a battle for a one man army.  What success in this endeavor will require is ample experimentation.  That means I need you.

It is entirely possible that someone before me has in fact discovered the proper BVN cue, but never knew it, because their kreisel sucked bilge.  While I have a great deal of confidence in my design, there is really no reason short of divine inspiration to believe my design is somehow the "right" one.

If you need an incentive beyond discovery, then here it is.  Breeding BVN can't be patented, but a kreisel most certainly can.  When FWE stops working, the right design could be worth a fortune $$$.

That said, I'm not going to show you my loc-line and screen design just yet.  To put it simply...

I'll show you mine if you show me yours!

©2013 Ryan F. Mercer -All Rights Reserved.
          === TREASURE HUNT ===

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Leading, yes.  Misleading is something different.

Some of you are probably scratching your heads wondering, what the heck am I doing that I can't just cut my screen with a pair of scissors?  I'll give you a hint.  I just finished gluing it in. Yep!  I've been working on it for the last 5 days. :]

It's crazy-awesome.  This kreisel is the best model rocket I've ever worked on.  I could make this drum 100 different ways and have a lot of fun with each and every one.

As it turns out, the black silicon glue not only cures in 5 minutes, but it's rather stylish on my write drum.  I might need to put a flame paint job on this puppy.

Seriously persons, get involved; have fun with me.  I've shown you all the basic materials you need and where to get them.  They aren't expensive.

Probably the single most significant element of my design is the PVC overflow with micron sock.  Just with that and this drum, I promise you, any design you make will likely be superior to those $400 dollar pieces of detritus sold on the internet.
 
So if you've ever had fun building a model rocket, or something similar, and you're into saltwater, then this hobby is for you.
 
I've created a forum for collaboration. If any of you have the guts to join me in discovery, we can work out an intellectual-property sharing agreement, whereby we all share and profit in common.  We can hire a lawyer and have a contract drafted, once we determine as a group the nature of that contract.  Why?  Because working as a team will allow for 'control groups' and 'experimental groups'.  Then we can knock down the variables one at a time, until we reach our goal.

This is about working together, not about stealing ideas.

Join me.

©2013 Ryan F. Mercer -All Rights Reserved.
          === TREASURE HUNT ===

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I'm just a guy with opinions...

{whistling innocently}

I've finished gluing in my loc-line outlets.  They do intersect the jug, but maintain a very low profile.  It really is coming together very nicely.

I've taken a black sharpie marker to the outside of the glass, having measured then marked the precise placement of my overflow and jug.  Now with these outlines in place, gluing in the overflow will be easy, but the hardest part of all still remains.

My screen design required I glue it in first and my jug design means I now have no means for reaching inside the jug.  So the question is, how do I glue the two circular seams bonding the jug to the two sides of the tank?  I've been proceeding forward with the assumption that I would figure something out.  Fortunately, I believe I have.  It will require two new tools of my own making and a combination of solutions.  But I have no shortage of determination; I'm itching for an unveiling.

It will be another week or so before I have any video.  In the mean time, check out my unstoppable ally.  They have the unique power and privilege to speak of me when and where... I can't speak back!

...Most can only dream of it.

©2013 Ryan F. Mercer -All Rights Reserved.
          === TREASURE HUNT ===

 
I don't know what you mean. I'm not trying to hold anything back. I just don't know what I know that you might want to know. I don't know _anything_ about velvets except that they look cool in photographs. I've never even seen one in person. I do know a little about Berghias and a little about invert reproduction. (If you can ever talk Ron Shimek into giving his invertebrate reproduction for hobbyists course again--I think it was called Invertebrate Larval Embryology--I'd encourage you to take it. I've taken it twice now and learn more each time.) Ask your questions. If I know anything I'll try to answer.

--Andy, the bucket man.
"Not to know the mandolin is to argue oneself unknown...." --Clara Lanza, 1886

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Patience.  First there is the tease.  Then we all get nudi's, eventualese.

Link
 

I appreciate all of your information immensely.

Just wanted to make a quick update.  I was planning on being clever and removing one pane of the tank glass to gain access to the inside of the jug for gluing the first seam.  While cutting away the top and bottom bracing was little trouble, it seems Nick -- assembler of my tank, according to the label -- was much more clever.  The sheets of glass are so perfectly bonded at the seam, there is simply no fitting a razor blade between them.  All attempts to do so only chip the glass.

I had read once that this could be done to replace a broken pane.  I can only assume tank assembly standards have markedly improved since the writing of that article.  Don't bother trying this.  It isn't even a maybe.

Instead, I will focus all my effort on building the best possible tools, to glue both seams via nothing more than a 2 inch hole on top.  I've already started on a promising design, but silicon glue dries slowly....

©2013 Ryan F. Mercer -All Rights Reserved.
          === TREASURE HUNT ===

Prepare thy self.

 
 

©2013 Ryan F. Mercer -All Rights Reserved.
          === TREASURE HUNT ===

These are my servants: Jetsam & Lagan.
 
Jetsam: (applicator)

 
Lagan: (smoother)

 
Their motions, effortless and precise.  Their master, electromagnetism.
 

 
Their résumé includes weaseling their way thru any 2 inch hole.  However, an online background check revealed that Jetsam is a power hungry neocon and Lagan was once convicted of lying under oath.  But private lives made public are still private, and oath said it was consensual.
 
I refuse to discriminate; together we can build great things.

©2013 Ryan F. Mercer -All Rights Reserved.
          === TREASURE HUNT ===

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Yep!  You have to do more than just look at the pictures.

©2013 Ryan F. Mercer -All Rights Reserved.
          === TREASURE HUNT ===

This is Wanda... by day:


This is Wanda... under cover:


I know she ain't pretty to look at, but I'll tell you what... You sit in the same room with her and you say it first. D:

She gets the job done!

©2013 Ryan F. Mercer -All Rights Reserved.
          === TREASURE HUNT ===

Here's the job...
 
Lagan will go first, descending into the tank upon a ferrous chain.


Wanda will give the necessary down link...

 
...and provide the rendezvous position so Lagan can make his contact without any "unfortunate incidents".

 
Jetsam can get in and out on his own, and will have a gun.

 
Once we're in position, Jetsam will unload, Lagan will try to smooth things out, and if it all gets too messy, well... Wanda will clean up.
 
The team will have to hit both sides of the tank and there's no plan 'B' if things go wrong.  So we'll do a practice run on the seam I cut out while trying to penetrate the perimeter.
 
With team work, we will succeed.

©2013 Ryan F. Mercer -All Rights Reserved.
          === TREASURE HUNT ===

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STATUS REPORT:
 
Practice run complete.  Team performed admirably.  Included a couple obsticales not expected on the job.  Team performed well when faced with the unexpected.
 
Main concern, now relieved, was that Lagan would prove too soft and crumple under pressure.  Instead, he showed Jetsam what a little finesse can really do.  An excellent pair.
 
As for Wanda, she has several pair.
 
The mission is a go!  I said...
 
Go Go Go...!

©2013 Ryan F. Mercer -All Rights Reserved.
          === TREASURE HUNT ===

The job is done... almost.

I couldn't have picked a better day.  First real sun and warmth we've had in weeks.  I wanted to do this outside so I would have plenty of light to work by, and my skin could use some color. :]

Opened up a window, blasted the techno, and everything went according to plan.  A joyful mission, is a successful mission.

A few pointers if you want to attempt this...

Patience and practice really makes the difference here.  My second seam went much smoother than the first, but still made a real mess on the glass on both sides.  Wanda can't really do much more than spread it thin.  I'm hoping it's thin enough that I can scrub it off with a mag float once dry.  The best advice for the sides of the jug is to not get any on there.  I managed that for the most part.

You want to get the seam right on the first pass.  Going back over a second time makes the mess because Lagan can't lift his nose, so it just smears everywhere it goes.  Also, only go one direction.  Reversing direction isn't helpful.  So take your time with Jetsam, the silicon is going to be slow and difficult to come out due to the length of tubing.  So move the nozzel 1 or 2 16ths of an inch at a time and wait until you see the bead contact the glass, then repeat.  About every quarter distance around the circumference of the jug, follow up with Lagan, draging his nose behind him at a low angle, no more than 45 degrees.  Leave Lagan where he is until ready to continue.

Important note: Jetsam's tube should not be any longer than 18 inches.  At that point the back pressure forces the silicone out the back of the caulking gun instead.

---------------

We won't actually know success until I do a water test.  That will require 48 hours to dry.  In the mean time, Jetsam told me I should declare "Mission Accomplished".  But Lagan let it be known that Jetsam has given that advice before and said he isn't going to take the fall for him again.  So we'll wait to see.

©2013 Ryan F. Mercer -All Rights Reserved.
          === TREASURE HUNT ===

Today the mission was a long, hard slog.

Tho Wanda is an indispensable part of the team, I finally had to tell her today that she doesn't apply the necessary pressure.  She got pretty bent out of shape over it...



...said she didn't join this chicken-**** outfit to be a damn maid.  To be honest, I bare part of the blame.  Wanda has a steel butt that she struts proudly for a reason.  I could have better utilized it to retrieve Lagan with less mess.  It simply required practice, but instead, I arrogantly assumed Wanda could clean up anything.  She can't.  Paper towels don't soak-up silicone, they spread it around, and once hardned, a wand tool just doesn't have any leverage.

I tried the mag float to clean the dried silicon off the glass.  In principle, it worked, but didn't have the strength to cut through the tough spots.  Fortunately, my display tank uses a Tunze Nano skimmer with a magnetic clip.  The pump died a few months ago and due to motor design changes I had to buy a whole new unit.  The advantage being the salvagable magnetic clip OF DOOM!

Together, these magnetic halves apply 55 pounds of pressure.  When I purchased the first unit, the written warning appeared on page 9.  I lost flesh from my finger on page 7.  Today, the warning appears on page 1.  Or page 0.97, if I'm counting with my fingers.



I added self-adhesive velcro to the two halves, creating an industrial strength magnetic scrapper to be feared.

It was a bit like polishing stone by hand, but after a lot of scrubbing, it ultimately cut thru what I needed it to.  Unfortunately, finely ground dried silicon is not unlike silicon grease, requiring I then wrap the magnet in a paper towel, over and over again.  In the end, the glass is in reasonably clean shape.  Certainly sufficient for viewing.  If I wanted it to be perfect, I'd probably adapt the magnet to look something like this.



Wanda can bark, but this thing can bite!

Given that I bought 3 more jugs, there's a real chance I'll be adding this one to the team at some point.  Only god knows it's name. :]

----------------

Fortunately Unfortunate

While cleaning out the jug, I unintentionally subjected my unique screen design to significant force.  It was the result of impatience on my part, but properly demonstrated that it lacked the necessary robustness to behave as needed.  This was in fact a very low moment.  While a fix was possible, it would not only be painstaking to implement, but would entirely defeat the point of my special screen design.

When choosing to experiment, one has to be prepared for these kinds of setbacks.  I accepted it for what it was and was mostly grateful the fix wouldn't require ripping apart the entire kreisel.  Such things happen.

Then it hit me!  It wasn't that I had a bad idea or that it's implementation was flawed, but rather, it was merely incomplete.  A simple and elegant solution that completely solved the problem while retaining all the advantages was hanging nearby.

3 feet of fishing line and a magnetic clip.  I kid you not.

At this point, I honestly feel I have to apologize for not showing it to you.  This thing just went from crazy-awesome, to insanely-awesome.

This is why I experiment.  For these are the private moments of wimsy frought with worry, transformed into an elation that only those who discover, can ever hope to hold.

I rather like it this way.

©2013 Ryan F. Mercer -All Rights Reserved.
          === TREASURE HUNT ===

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Mission Accomplished.
 


While the team and I celebrated our success, it came out that before accepting the job, Jetsam had done an online background check of me as well.  I couldn't help but ask what compelled him to work with an outspoken, liberal leaning, perpetually incorrigible dissenter, like myself.  He said he really wasn't sure about me at first, but that over the years his faith has taught him, "The Sum is greater than the Hole of its parts."
 
 
 
 

©2013 Ryan F. Mercer -All Rights Reserved.
          === TREASURE HUNT ===

Now I'm looking at filtration options and I have a couple of questions.  Umm_fish?, I'm looking at you here.  I'm taking your advice to keep the kreisel isolated, but I still want to give it all the filtration it can stand.

1.) If my water is green with phyto and I turn on a skimmer, what happens?

2.) If I dip chaeto in coralRX, will it be safe to add to the kreisel's system?

I want to use a HOB refugium with DSB and chaeto.  The DSB would keep the system cycled and the chaeto would supress film algae in the kreisel.  If possible, the filtration circuit would start with an overpowered skimmer.

Thoughts?

©2013 Ryan F. Mercer -All Rights Reserved.
          === TREASURE HUNT ===

1. The phyto goes away.
2. I have no idea.
3. Use dead sand and take the long, slow road cycling the first time and that should be fine. I've been toying with the idea of trying out probiotics on the larval tanks, just to speed up the cycle for them.
 
Another option might be just to have one extra ten gallon tank. Cycle it with a bunch of sponge filters and when you start breaking in a new larval tank just pop one of those in there for a couple of days ahead of time. Larval tanks don't need to be technologically crazy like a reef tank. They need to be clean. Remember that the environment they are trying to mimic is just clean, open ocean. Not a lot of water movement (actually, a lot of water movement but it all moves together, so pretty calm).

--Andy, the bucket man.
"Not to know the mandolin is to argue oneself unknown...." --Clara Lanza, 1886

Link 

1.) I was afraid of that.  Thank you for this vital information.

I ran some flow control tests with my Fluval 105 canister.  I found an arrangement that didn't disrupt the movement inside the kreisel and then measured the flow rate.  It measured close to 120 gph.  I consider this good results but am uncertain I want to use the canister itself.  It was originally purchased to be used with sponges on my QT, but my QT has never gotten any real use.  I was thinking of using the Fluval to feed the HOB refugium, but my LFS asked why I would want to use a canister in a marine environment.  I didn't have a good answer at the time, but if a skimmer is out of the question, then running a canister with sponges might make sense, so long as I change the sponges daily?  Or would it be better just to move all the gunk straight to the fuge?  There won't be anything but bacteria in there tho, so I'm unsure what would be best.

I also have a 5w UV sterilizer that I've never used.  Would it be useful to sterilize the system water before adding inhabitants?  On that note, how should I sterilize the system itself?  I was thinking of running 20% vinegar thru it.

I have a backup QuiteOne-1200 pump, incase the one that feeds my DT chiller dies.  It has a maximum flow close to 300 gph.  I'm going to use it to perform another flow control test and see how the kreisel responds.

©2013 Ryan F. Mercer -All Rights Reserved.
          === TREASURE HUNT ===

I think it's good to leave the skimmer off. Save it for your growout tanks.
 

 
Water movement? I personally find canisters a pain because it's hard to get into them. That said, if that's what you have and it works, no reason not to use it. Sponge filters are great. You do have to squeeze them out every day or the bacteria cakes on them. Your goal is to change ammonia to nitrate as quickly as possible. Then you can worry about getting the nitrate out. But it's really growout where you see lots of nitrate issues, not so much on the larval rearing. I'm fairly sure that most people who see water quality issues in a larval rearing tank see them because they plop the larva into a sterile tank with no biofilter at all.
 
Speaking of sterile, vinegar will work. I use bleach because I have it and because I can test for it and neutralize it. If you use bleach, find some with no perfumes or other additives.

--Andy, the bucket man.
"Not to know the mandolin is to argue oneself unknown...." --Clara Lanza, 1886

Link 

I think their point was it would be better to skim and they simply didn't have phytotrophes in mind.  As most everyone knows, canisters are typically a nitrate factory and a pain to get into.  But they weren't arguing with me, just offering an accurate observation.  That said, I think the Fluval is the way to go.  This setup doesn't offer the opportunity for a micron sock, so sponges changed daily sound like the best way to remove detritus before it becomes ammonia.  When kept in a bucket, opening and closing the Fluval really isn't so bad, and it would also provide the opportunity for carbon.  Plus the gph just seems right.  At worst, I get tired of it and swap it out for an equivalent pump.

On that note, I tried the QO-1200, but due to the kinky nature of vinyl and resulting head pressure, the pump said it couldn't concentrate and wasn't getting much more than 200 gph.  Honestly, if someone would sell vinyl from a spool that didn't collapse the tubing, I'm certain I'd pay more for it.  It neither forgives nor forgets.  Good news is the kreisel weathered 200 gph just fine.  As luck would have it, my QO pump had a small leak that was sucking in some air, chopping it into fine bubbles, and giving me a great view of the currents and eddies.  Based on that, I got the sense anything more than 200 gph would be pushing it.  However, my screen opening extends rather low on the jug.  A screen opening that ends 3 or 4 inches above the bottom of the tank could easily accommodate an even higher flow.  In any event, I think the 120 gph provided by the Fluval is plenty and I'm pleased the kreisel's interior is so well isolated when arranged this way.

Now I have to decide on my brood system and figure out how I'm going to fit everything in the area I have available.  I'd like to use a 5g glass as sump for the 2.5g breeder.  It would be connected by a nano overflow and require I drill the glass.  I've never done that before but have always wanted to try it.  Unfortunately, I don't think my drill is up to the task.  I'll probably ask the local glass shop to do it.  Then I'll need to put a couple shelves on the wall and I'll finally be ready to go.

©2013 Ryan F. Mercer -All Rights Reserved.
          === TREASURE HUNT ===

CPR Aquafuge 2 Hang-On Refugium: (with standard 3/4" threaded bulkhead)

{click for larger image}

 
The factory outlet fitting looks like PVC, but it's not.  It's a proprietary plastic part, but it uses the same sized hole as a standard 3/4" bulkhead.  I've replaced it with a 3/4" threaded for use with a 3/4" male-threaded loc-line adapter with 3/4" to 1/2" loc-line reducer.



I had hoped the inlet fitting used the same sized hole as a standard 1/2" bulkhead, but the hole is too small for that.  As luck would have it, a simple 90 degree twist of the factory fitting is the answer.  I need only remove the Fluval's spout and then the rubber Fluval fitting slides snuggly into place.  It's like it was made for it.



The initial compartment fits my 150w titanium heater perfectly.



The lower baffle separating the sand bed from the initial compartment allows for a maximum depth of 3 and a half inches.  So I want a sugar-fine sand grade to ensure a functional DSB.  I found the following substrate at Petco and I like both it's color and composition.

Umm_fish?, tho the attendant said it just fell off the glass, I'm pretty sure it's dead.



mndfreeze, from the kreisel's outer compartment, to a canister with sponges and carbon, to a DSB and Chaeto, then thru 100 micron sock, before anything enters the kreisel's inner compartment.  Am I missing anything?
 
 
I should mention, as with all things acrylic, this refugium is overpriced.  As Umm_fish? mentioned, a simple air driven sponge filter would probably suffice.  They are much more affordable, but I do have my reasons for choosing this device.
 
Now I need shelves!

©2013 Ryan F. Mercer -All Rights Reserved.
          === TREASURE HUNT ===

I had a large plastic pipe fitting laying around and glued it to the bottom of a bucket to act as a stand for my Fluval.  I then glued some eggcrate over the opening to hold the canister in place.  It also holds a flathead screwdriver for easy opening and provides a shelf for the lid when open.  This should make the daily sponge rinse a clean and easy process.

Now I know what you're thinking...

{click for larger image}


...just buy some damn shrimp already!

Well I would... but the breeder is getting drilled right now, and she told me not to pick her up 'til Tuesday.

In the mean time, my partner has some updates.

©2013 Ryan F. Mercer -All Rights Reserved.
          === TREASURE HUNT ===

yarrr.... scalawags, it be a see voyage we're taken.  We be look'n fer sum sunken treasure....



Lumber isn't my favorite material to work with, but I manage.  These shelves are both sturdy and level.  Also, I only trust a DSB I can see, so I've cut a window into the dry wall for a 'behind the scenes' view.

While the Aquafuge can technically hang on the back of my kreisel, I really want the fuge to stand on its own.  Not only does this allow me to easily swap out the kreisel if needed, but the weight of the sand in this size of a fuge could prove too much for a 10 gallon tank.

The shelf on the left is for the breeder and I've set the top of the tank level with the top of the fuge.  This allows them to conveniently share the same 24" T5 x2 light fixture.



I really wanted to show all of you a completed workstation this weekend, but I've run into a delay.  2.5g All-Glass aquariums are made with 1/16th" glass.  The shop called me Tuesday to warn that drilling glass that thin would crack.  I told them to give it a shot anyway.

It cracked.

I had already built the shelf to accommodate this size and dimension of tank, so I considered my options and realized, while it is no longer possible to remove a single pane of glass intact, it is still possible to remove a single pane that is first busted out from the middle.  So I ordered a replacement pane at 3/16th", but it won't be done until Tuesday.

In the mean time, here is the 5g sump for the 2.5g brood.



I'll be running it bare bottom with liverock and I've put in eggcrate to protect the glass.  The thing that always astounds me about most who run bare bottom (besides the obvious draft), is how easy it is for a small tumble to end all the fun.

The return pump is a Mini-Jet 404.



The skimmer is a AquaticLife Mini 115.



And the reactor is a Fluval U1.  It's intended as a sponge filter, mostly for freshwater tanks, but I've removed the sponge and replaced it with a media bag for carbon.



So here it is!  Such as it is.





You'll notice the back of the kreisel makes for an excellent spill tray.

I'll need to replace the 1/2" with 3/4" loc-line tho.  Currently, I can only run the canister at half power or the fuge will overflow.

As for the brackets up top, they hold the light fixture when I need into the brood or the fuge.

Today I started the cycle!



I've sprinkled some frozen mysis on the sand and added bacteria.

Interestingly, when I bought the sand, I assumed it was oolite, but upon opening the bag, I realized it was entirely sugar-fine quartz.  I had heard quartz sand can be bad, but I didn't know as to why other than it can scratch the glass, which of course, doesn't matter in this situation.  So I did a quick search and turned up this rather interesting article.  It serves as a reminder not only of the many voodoo myths that tend to crop up in this hobby, but also just how much more 'Mr. Wizard' this hobby is getting each year.

Blessed is the free exchange of information, for it enriches us all.

After reading that article, I came to the conclusion that quartz might actually be the preferable substrate for this application.

Now I just need to keep an eye on this guy.  I really love these Ammonia Alert badges.  I'm not sure why anyone would buy an actual test kit anymore.



With luck, Tuesday will be the final assembly and by Thursday all the glue should be dry.  I'll fill the 7.5g breeder system with tank water from my display tank, as well as using liverock from its refugium, so it won't need to be cycled. I should have Sexies doing the nasty in no time.

Complex research science, or prurient voyeurism cleverly disguised?  I'm guessing false duality!

©2013 Ryan F. Mercer -All Rights Reserved.
          === TREASURE HUNT ===

Link


 
Ahoy mates!
Here be our vessel.  Mind your manners bilge rats, she's one of the crew.  You may address her as...
 
...The Scalawag

 
Ye who seek sunken treasure, first be need'n a mermaid.  And Pirate Pete been tell'n tales of a mermaid lagoon.  Seen it with his own eye, he did, and he swear this be the map.
 
Just for luck, Pete be come'n along!



Aarrrrr.... ain't that right Pete?



I've made a fine bed in the Captain's quarters, perfect for a few captured beauties.
 




Now mind yer business and keep yer blimey hands off the casks in the the cargo hold!



If the winds be fair, we could reach the lagoon by Wednessday.

---------------

Well it's been quite the journey from there...



...to here...



...but yes, you really can build a kreisel with just a 10 gallon tank, 8 dollar pump, and 6 gallon jug.  The rock soup is optional, but I find it delicious. :]

©2013 Ryan F. Mercer -All Rights Reserved.
          === TREASURE HUNT ===

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Shiver me timbers... Pete be a scoundrel, but a liar he ain't.  There be mermaids, just as he swore, half woman and half fish!  But the tale be a wee-bit embellished from there... --Look fer yer self; there be one on the shore.



There's no catch'n a mermaid without taken a swim, but make no mistake, these be shark infested waters.  So Pete suggested we first lure the sharks far from the lagoon.  "Chum the outer waters with some bloodied meat", he said.

Savvy!  Captured a mermaid pair, we did.  Wouldn't let them both free until one brought up the treasure box from the bottom of the sea. And bring it up she did.





*EMPTY*...  Rapscallions!  Not a single piece of eight!  Just 5 dancing shrimp that have made this box their home...



...but hold! There be an inscription carved into the bottom.  "These are but the jewels. The true treasure is deeper."
 
 
 
 
Yarrr.... there still be treasure and this be a clue.  Thanks for give'n a hand, Pete!



Our see voyage is only beginning.

©2013 Ryan F. Mercer -All Rights Reserved.
          === TREASURE HUNT ===

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This breeder is my first nano.  I've noticed I really have to watch salinity, but am managing to keep the specific gravity between .025 and .0255.  I do a daily 2 quart water change on my display tank, then use the left over water to perform a 2 quart water change on the breeder.  This makes for a breeder system turn over rate of about 2x per month.

June 9th, I added 5 sexy-shrimp to the breeder along with a frag of frogspawn.  There are 2 males and 3 females.  The much larger male is named Joules, and the smaller male is Plucky.  The triplets are Destiny, Star, and Mystery, but I can't tell them apart.

Life is pretty good for Joules.  He's twice the size of the only other male, and has three eager females to keep company.  Only three days after acclimation, I caught Joules mating.  The act itself was incredibly brief, so I only managed to catch the after glow on camera, but characteristic of the species, the male jealously guards the female immediately after mating.
 

 
So Joules, how do you explain your luck with the females?

{Joules} Heeyyy.... what can I tell ya?  The ladies just know I'm bigger.  Badabing!

Yep, Joules is the master of his domain.  Oh, but there is that pesky little Plucky.  Who does that smart mouth think he is?  Mystery says Star was making eyes at Plucky, but Star denies it.  Anyway, the whole thing was captured on the lastest episode of...



{the following video contains language that may be deemed unsuitable for small (or even obese) children.}

 
According to the information given by pj86, I should have newly hatched larva on both the 24th and the 30th.  That will provide some personal satisfaction, but unfortunately, not much else.  My kreisel isn't anywhere close to cycled, with my ammonia spike only just beginning.  Sad to say, these 2 batches are ultimately doomed.  But I will at least get some experience with catching and transferring as well as get my first real look at how the larva naturally move in the kreisel. {shrug}  Better than nothing I suppose.

Another disappointment is that I needed to remove the frogspawn.  In such a small space, the 5 sexy-shrimp were literally trampling it to death.  I thought a couple days of introduction would result in a touchy-feely understanding, but instead the polyps just looked more and more sad and the large male got pretty aggressive about reaching down into the retracted mass.  The frogspawn is now recovering nicely in my display tank, but it does leave the breeder looking rather bare and less comfortable for the shrimp.  Anyone have any suggestions?

Umm_fish?, tho I will eventually try what ever pod culture you think best, to start I'm going to use baby brine shrimp.  I don't want to have to worry about a culture crash just yet.

pj86, you still following?  I could use whatever advice you have regarding decapsulation and what not.  It'll give me something to practice while I wait for the kreisel to cycle.

I'd love it if I didn't have to wait, but something tells me I'll find a way to have fun in the mean time.  We'll be there before we know it.

©2013 Ryan F. Mercer -All Rights Reserved.
          === TREASURE HUNT ===

 
You gotta do what you gotta do.
 

 
They don't really need a host. You could try a plastic coral if you want.

--Andy, the bucket man.
"Not to know the mandolin is to argue oneself unknown...." --Clara Lanza, 1886

Yarrr.... Pete decided it was time he be get'n back, so we shared a cask of my finnest rum before he disembarked.  A kind soul he is.  Even left me a message let'n me know, there's no hard feel'ns and we still be friends!
 




--------------
 
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I agree!

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You know it! :p

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Good morning.

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Frankly, I'm as surprised as you are.



 
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It's a carnival ride, with prizes.

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All I could find is a hot pink plastic plant for a beta bowl.  I'd take a photo, but I don't actually approve.  They don't seem to want it for a host either.

--------------

So in preparation for breeding BVN, I've setup a culture dish for their food source.  Everything I've read suggests BVN are voracious and providing sufficient flatworms for food can be a challenge.  Here's a great document that includes the photosynthetic and dietary details of Red Planaria: Convolutriloba retrogemma.



This 35g dish was found at Home Depot and is intended as a decorative pond.  Their website only says that it's safe for fish and plants, but I did a little research and determined for a fact that it is made of high-density polyethylene.  Same stuff as the jug I used to make the kreisel.

The light fixture came from a local hydroponics shop.  It's a 400w sodium with external Galaxy digital ballast and 4"-duct fan.

The shallow sandbed is a conglomeration of stuff I had left over.  1 part sugar-fine quartz, 1 part OceanDirect Original Grade, and a couple hand fulls of pebbles and shells spread on top.  I'll add a few pieces of liverock rubble from my refugium to get things started.

The heater is a 150w titanium Finnex digital.  I've never seen these on Marine Depot, so want to point out what a great product they are, and a great brand too.  It's titanium, digital, remote sensor, built-in preset high/low temp alarm, preset overheat auto kill, and compact.  I only wish the temp alarm and auto kill were adjustable, but the price is right.  I also spoke to the company once and was pleased with their customer service.

For flow, I'm using an old Koralia 1.

I figure I'll throw in a couple air stones and call it done.  No skimmer.  Tho I may find it necessary to occasionally skim off the surface scum manually, we'll see.

--------------

Up next, decapsulation!
 
Link
 
 

©2013 Ryan F. Mercer -All Rights Reserved.
          === TREASURE HUNT ===

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Thanks, but I won't kid you, the evap on that thing is terrible.  I have an auto top-off kit on the way and will hook it directly to my RO/DI.  Should be pretty care free after that.

--------------------

When hatching brine shrimp, nearly any tapered-bottom container plus air-pump will do.

San Francisco Bay Brine Shrimp Hatchery:



This kit includes everything you need, except the air-pump and all important 2-liter bottle.  Yep, it's a weighted base with a bit of airline tubing and a packet of eggs, nothing more.  At a mere $7, it's still over priced.

An easy alternative is to simply use the bottom half of the 2-liter bottle for the base instead.  This method has been used and demonstrated countless times.



But that's not to say it can't be improved upon.  Marc at ventralfins.com points out that a twin 2-liter design provides significantly greater volume.



However, he also explains, "This is NOT a perfect design... There is always room for improvement. If people don't tinker and experiment, then we will never have anything new..."

I couldn't agree more, Marc! And not to be out done, here is my own triple 2-liter design.

....................

Whys Triple 2-Liter Plankton Reactor Tutorial
(ie: Brine Shrimp Hatchery)

You will need three 2-liter soda bottles and one cap.  Two of the bottles can be of any brand, but at least one needs to be Coca Cola. You will also need a gang-valve, 1 foot of rigid airline tubing, an inch or two of vinyl airline tubing, and a small glass or similar sized container.



Also, if you're having trouble removing the last bits of label from the 2-liter bottles, you can use a solvent such as Goof Off for a clear and clean finish. Note: do not allow solvent to get inside the bottle or around any openings and wash the bottle thoroughly after application.


 
 
Step 2:  
Slice one foot off of one bottle with a knife or razor blade.


 
 
Step 3:
Use the tip of the blade to carve a small dimple into the bottom center of the same bottle, then drill the dimple with a 1/4 inch drill bit.
 

 
 
Step 4:
Attach about a 1 inch section of vinyl airline tubing to a gang-valve, opposite the knob, and insert the tubing into the drilled hole on the bottle.


 
 
Step 5:
From inside the bottle, insert an 11 & 1/4 inch section of rigid airline tubing into the gang valve, locking the valve in place.  A pair of needle nose pliers will help.
 


I also like to add about a 1 inch section of rigid airline tubing to the other end of the gang-valve for an easier air-pump disconnect.
 
 
Step 6:
Next, cut the bottom 6 inches off the matching bottle and add ballast.  This provides a weighted stand for the inverted bottle.



I like to use decorative glass beads for the ballast.
 
 
Step 1:
Finally, pour a desired amount of rum into the glass...



...then add Coca Cola.
 
 
Example:
Jade & Amber.


 
 
This concludes my triple 2-liter plankton reactor tutorial.  Cheers!
 

 

 
....................

Sorry to say, no news for the breeder.  I see a dark blob tucked under the base of the tail of at least one female, but I have absolutely no experience with this, so won't know what I have until I have it. {crossing fingers}

Wish us luck!

©2013 Ryan F. Mercer -All Rights Reserved.
          === TREASURE HUNT ===

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You should.  It has its moments.

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The kreisel is done.  There's a video of it in action in an earlier post.  Or you can find it on YouTube from any of my other videos.

Thanks for the suggestions.  I haven't entirely decided what I want to use for phyto cultures yet.  I'll probably just use Jade and Amber to start, but I might eventually want something larger and easier to clean.

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Umm_fish?, how do I collect and transfer the larvae from the breeder to the kreisel without introducing breeder-tank water to the kreisel?  I intend to use a wide mouth "straw" which I've stuffed with micron sock on one end.  When I hold my thumb over the top, lower the straw into the water, then release my thumb, there is a gentle suction as the water finds a level inside the straw.  This seems fairly ideal for collecting the larvae, but a small amount of water from the breeder will be transferred to the kreisel with each larvae.  Is there a better way?
 
 
----------
 
I recently received some good advice from jayelblock for identifying a pregnant Sexy Shrimp.

The eggs are tucked up under the tail and mostly concealed by the lateral tail flaps.  The flaps from both sides normally meet in a 'V' shape, but as the egg mass enlarges the flaps are pushed outward and separate.  This makes the female appear larger when viewed from the side and boxier when viewed from behind.

*CONFIRMED*, I have one pregnant female!
{happy dance}



As luck would have it, she put her tail end right up against the front glass, so I got out my 30x Micronta hand-held microscope and managed to get a good focus.  Obviously, I can't take photos with my Micronta, so I've provided an artistic rendering of what I saw.

I'm totally stoked.

©2013 Ryan F. Mercer -All Rights Reserved.
          === TREASURE HUNT ===

I don't believe it's possible to avoid using _any_ broodstock water with live larvae. Two options: 1. Minimize broodstock water as much as possible. 2. Move the female to the kreisel before the larvae hatch (in some sort of box the larvae can escape from or something) and let her hatch there.
 
Good luck and congratulations!

--Andy, the bucket man.
"Not to know the mandolin is to argue oneself unknown...." --Clara Lanza, 1886

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Either something happened or I was just seeing what I wanted to see, because nothing came of it.  To make matters worse, Joules has gone missing -- not even a trace.

So it's just Plucky and the triplets now.  It's possible that the fighting over the females was a detriment.  So who knows, a blessing in disguise?  Thing is, I'm not certain Plucky is actually mature enough. {shrug}

Anyway, wanted to give the quick update: still waiting.

©2013 Ryan F. Mercer -All Rights Reserved.
          === TREASURE HUNT ===