Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia

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JimWelsh
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Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Friday, September 21, 2012 9:08 PM
Breeding Journal DataSheet
This first post should be updated regularly to include new information as events take place or changes are made to your system

General
Species:  Pseudochromis cyanotaenia
Social Structure:  Bonded pair
Size of Individuals:  2 - 2 1/2"
Age of Individuals:  Unknown (wild caught)
Date added to Tank:  9/21/2012

Broodstock Tank Details
Size of Tank:  29 Gallons
Substrate Details:  Bare Bottom
Filtration Details:  HOB Filters (one for each side)
Water Changes:  As needed
Water Temperature:  76 - 78 F
Lighting:  24" T8 17W
Lighting Cycle:  Appx. 13H on / 11H off
Other Tank Inhabitants:  None

Broodstock Feeding Details
Food Types:  Various frozen foods and pellets:  Mysis, Spirulina Brine, Nutramar Ova, some Squid, Marine Cuisine, Rod's Food Regular, Rod's Food Fish Eggs, TDO C2, Oto EP-1, etc.
Feeding Schedule:  2-4 times a day

Spawning Details
Date of First Spawn:  03/19/2013
Spawn Time of Day:  Noon
Dates of Consecutive Spawns:  04/01/2013, 04/08/2013, 04/20/2013
Courtship Details:  Female is very gravid and swimming frantically at the divider.  Male shows ABSOLUTELY INSANELY BRIGHT colors, and swims frantically at the divider.
Egg Size:  Small, < 1mm
Egg Color:  White
Egg Count:  Large egg mass -- over 1,000

Hatch Details
Hatch Date:  3/23/2013
Hatch Time of Day:  10:00 PM
# Days after Spawn:  4
Larvae Description:    Tiny things with hardly any body, but large eyes.
Consecutive Hatch Dates:      4/5/2013


Larval Tank Details
Temperature:  78-80 F
Size of Larval Tank:  15 Gallon BRT
Substrate Details:  None
Other Tank Decor:  None
Filtration Details:  Live phyto @ 200,000 cells / ml.
Lighting:  Compact fluorescent filtered with paper towels.
Lighting Cycle:  24 hours on
Water Changes:  15-50% every 1-2 days after the first week or so, decreased to more like 25-30% every 2-3 days after three weeks.

Larval Feeding Details
Food Types:  Parvocalanus at first, then enriched rotifers.  NHBBS started at Day 7.  Enriched BBS started about Day 10.  More Parvocalanus, Acartia, and Apocyclops fed at around two weeks.  Tigriopus added at about three weeks.
Feeding Schedule:  Constant

Metamorphosis/Settlement
Date of Settlement Start:  5/6/2013
Days after Hatch:  31
Date of Settlement End: 
Description of Fry: 

Grow-Out Tank Details

Temperature: 
Size of Grow-Out Tank: 
Substrate Details: 
Other Tank Decor: 
Filtration Details: 
Lighting: 
Lighting Cycle: 
Water Changes: 
Size at Transfer: 
Age at Transfer: 

Grow-Out Feeding Details
Food Types: 
Feeding Schedule: 

Additional Information

(No Pictures or Videos in the Section Please)
Miscellaneous Information: 



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<message edited by JimWelsh on Tuesday, May 7, 2013 1:30 PM>

JimWelsh
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Friday, September 21, 2012 11:51 PM
I picked up this pair from Diver's Den the other day.  They arrived just today, in excellent condition, as was expected.  I have them in a tank that is set up almost exactly like the one I have my P. tapeinosoma in.  29 Gallons, with a divider, with a hole in the divider closed with a 3/4" PVC Plug + Cap combination.  There are some PVC caves for them to hide in.  They can see each other and interact, but cannot harm each other.
 
The female of this pair is a little larger than the male is.  Just like the first P. tapeinosoma pair I got, they both seem to want to get through the divider and kill each other.  It will be interesting to see if there are any significant differences in the behavior of this pair relative to the behavior of the P. tapeinosoma pair, over time.
 
Here are some lousy pictures I took today.  Hopefully, I'll get some better pics soon.
 
The male:

 
The female:

 
 
Attached Image(s)

JimWelsh
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Sunday, September 23, 2012 9:21 PM
Well, this male is one of the friendliest fishes I have ever met!  He gladly eats pellets out of my hand just two days after arriving!  He loves TDO C2 and OTO EP-1 right from my fingers at the water surface.  The female is a bit more shy, but still does take the pellets enthusiastically.  This pair still seems to spend most of their time trying to figure out how to breach the tank divider, and are threatening each other across the divider most of the day.

JC Clownfish
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Sunday, September 23, 2012 11:01 PM
very cool

JimWelsh
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Tuesday, March 19, 2013 4:44 PM
Well, after a long time I finally got a successful spawn today!
 
This pair has been a real problem.  They are VERY aggressive towards each other.  Even though my P. tapeinosoma pair are mean to each other when not spawning, the P. cyanotaenia make P. tapeinosoma look very tame in comparison.
 
Several times over the last several months, I'd see that the female was looking gravid, and the male was flashing colors, so I'd open the gate in the divider.  Prior to today, each time, the timing just wasn't exactly right, though, and either the female would stay on her side, and the male would come chasing her over on her side, or else the female would come over to the male's side, but she wouldn't "obey" his leading her to his cave right away, and so he would start attacking her.  One time, about a month ago, this latter behavior happened, so I closed the gate, but the male somehow managed to either squeeze past the edge of the divider or jumped onto the female's side, and the female beat the crap out of him.  I found him a few hours later, cowering at the very top of the divider.  He has since recovered, but she really tore him up that time.
 
For the last few days, I've been watching as the female has been looking plumper and plumper, and each day, the male is flashing his colors, and each day, I open the gate, and each time, the female would go to the male's side, and just get attacked when she wouldn't go into his cave when ordered to.
 
Today, the male had brighter colors than I've probably ever seen, and as soon as I opened the gate, within literally 2-3 seconds, the female went dashing into his cave, followed a split second later by the male, and they stayed in there for at least half an hour.  When the female did finally leave, the egg mass was still attached to her by a thread, so it came out with her, and then detached.  I gently turkey-basted it into the male's PVC cave, and an hour later, I checked, and he is tending the eggs.
 
My rotifer culture is not ready for this, so I immediately placed a Reed Mariculture order for some fresh rotifers, which should arrive the day after tomorrow.  If the male brings the eggs to term, then I expect the hatch on Saturday night.

JimWelsh
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Friday, March 22, 2013 1:50 AM
As of tonight, the male is still tending the egg ball.  It is in the very back of the PVC cave, and is very difficult to photograph, so I'm going to take a picture of the egg mass right before hatching, and I hope that will suffice for the spawn report.  The Reed Mariculture rotifer order arrived a day earlier than expected (I called to ask when it would ship, and I was told that I missed the deadline, but then it shipped the same day anyway -- Reed Mariculture customer service ROCKS!).  So, I am set with rotifers.  I am ready to hatch BBS when necessary.  I have RotiGreen Omega for greenwater and also have live Nannochloropsis for greenwater, too.  ChlorAm-X is ready, too.

JimWelsh
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Sunday, March 24, 2013 2:59 AM
I got some pictures of the male tending the egg mass in his PVC cave tonight shortly before hatch.  I also snapped a shot of the egg mass as I was transferring it into the tumbler when it was time to hatch.  This egg mass is significantly larger than any I ever got from the P. tapeinosoma.
 



 
Attached Image(s)

JimWelsh
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Sunday, March 24, 2013 3:10 AM
The hatch was done according to the protocol Tal has outlined for dottybacks.  Basically, it is simply to tumble them in a cut-down brine shrimp hatcher with a strong light on them right after "lights out".  I was getting worried after about 15 minutes, because none of them were hatching. 
 
At one point, the egg mass caught a big bubble of air, and was suspended at the top, but wasn't tumbling any more, so I poked at it with my finger to release the air bubble, and I immediately noticed a few larvae had hatched.  Thinking that my touch might have induced the hatch, and recalling other written reports of male dottybacks biting and shaking the egg mass vigorously at hatch time, I started poking at it some more with my finger, and lo and behold, a bunch more larvae hatched!  I continued to jiggle and swirl the egg mass with my finger, and the more I jostled it, the more and more the larvae hatched!  This continued for probably about 1/2 hour, until all of the eggs had hatched. 
 
All the while, I was pouring the hatched larvae out of the tumbler, into the BRT, and replacing the tumbler water with water taken from the far, unlit edge of the BRT with a small beaker.  I was suprised to see that this hatch was a HUGE number of larvae -- well over 1,000 in my estimation, and probably closer to 1,500! 
 
I had previously added a combination of live Isochrysis + Pavlova + Tetraselmis at a very light density of about 200,000 cells / ml to the 20 liters of broodstock tank water in the BRT.  I added enough rotifers to get the density up to around 20 / ml or so, perhaps even a little more dense.  I also dosed a moderate amount of RotiGreen Omega, and a commensurate amount of ChlorAm-X. 
 
Here are some pictures of the larvae:
 



 
 
 
Attached Image(s)

CableGuy
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Sunday, March 24, 2013 12:48 PM
I didnt know you still had this pair. Awesome!  So do you think you'll get a good and comparable survival rate with rotifers over rotifers + copepods or just copepods?
 
 
-Adam

JimWelsh
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Sunday, March 24, 2013 1:57 PM
One thing is for sure:  I'm not going to give them Apocyclops!  With P. tapeinosoma, each time I gave them Apocyclops, I had massive dieoff within 48 hours.  This time, I do have plenty of Parvocalanus and Acartia that I could give them, but I've been admonished by Matt Pedersen after the tapeinosoma debacle to just go with what has been proven to work:  rotifers and BBS.
 
I have enough of these guys to separate some out in to a 2nd BRT and experiment, though, which is what I most likely will do.

JimWelsh
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Tuesday, April 2, 2013 12:24 AM
Well, I have made several mistakes with this first batch of larvae.  First, with this very large number of larvae plus all the rotifers in such a relatively small volume of water, even with ChlorAm-X, I still had an ammonia spike after about 48 hours that killed off probably 75% of them.  I siphoned out the dead larvae, and dosed more ChlorAm-X until the ammonia was under control.  The next mistake was when I added the first NHBBS:  I added too many, too soon.  I added them on about day 5, which was almost certainly too soon.  I have learned that I tend to significantly underestimate the number of BBS in a given volume -- I've done it in the past when working with various Hippocampus species, and I did it this time, too.  It seems like I end up with somewhere between 10 - 100 times the amount I need!  I have been adding Kanamycin together with the RotiGreen Omega and ChlorAm-X ever since I introduced the BBS.  I do still have probably about 100 of the fry left at day 9, but between the excess rotifers and the excess (now several day old) BBS, I'm overwhelmed with too much food that clears the RotiGreen too quickly, and haven't yet gotten good enough at separating the larvae from the excess live food items.  I'm basically chalking this batch up to a learning experience.

The good news is that the broodstock spawned again today, and I have another nice-looking egg mass that should hatch on Friday night, if all goes well.  I plan to set up two BRTs for this next hatch, with a bit more than 5 gallons in each, and to split the hatch between the two BRTs.  One BRT will get a plain vanilla rotifers + RotiGreen Omega + ChlorAm-X treatment, with a very few NHBBS on day 7 or 8, and Kanamycin once the BBS are added, and very few more BBS added as the first BBS are eaten.  The second BRT will be treated with live copepods -- Parvocalanus at first, and Acartia added later on -- and a very light live phyto greenwater treatment.  That's the plan at this point, at least.
 

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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Tuesday, April 2, 2013 10:08 AM
Great progress Jim!
 
Have you considered skipping the BBS and going straight to TDO or Oto A?  What is the Kanamycin for?  I've had troubles with hatching my Orchid Dottys, when you say a strong light just after "lights out" do you mean you let it be dark for awhile first or when lights out is supposed to happen you instead give them strong lighting?
Don't let fear and common sense stop you! =]

JimWelsh
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Tuesday, April 2, 2013 12:29 PM
Based on Matt Pedersen's Sunrise journal, I think it takes them a while to start taking OtoA.  The Kananycin is because of the bacteria from the BBS.  What I said about the "lights out" meant the latter.

JimWelsh
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Saturday, April 6, 2013 2:37 PM
There was another spawn last Monday, and like clockwork, they hatched last night.  I had lost the last of the previous batch Friday morning, which makes 13 days for those guys, which I realize is not very good for raising dottybacks, but still better than my previous record of 11 days.
 
I set up two bleached, dechlored, rinsed, and dried BRTs last night.  I put a seedling heater mat under each BRT, and a cheap clamp-on reflector with a compact fluorescent bulb directly over each BRT.
 
In one of them, I put about 4 gallons of a dense Parvocalanus culture plus another 4 gallons of broodstock tank water.  I added 400 ml of a very dense Isochrysis live culture @ appx. 15,000,000 cells / ml, which calculates out to be roughly (400 * 15,000,000) / (8 * 3,800) =  200,000 cells / ml, which is ideal for continuing the Parvocalanus culture.  I also added about 3-4 ml of a 12 tsp / liter ClorAm-X solution.
 
In the other, I took 8 gallons of broodstock tank water, and added about 40 drops of RotiGreen Omega and about 4-6 ml of the ClorAm-X solution.  I sieved 4 liters of rotifers that are running about 100 / ml and backwashed them into the BRT, for a density of around 10-15 per ml.  (Now that I've done this math this morning, and verified the density in the BRT, I'll be feeding them some more rotifers right away to get the density up over 20 / ml).
 
I then put a limewood airstone in each BRT, held down with a small suction cup (the ones that come with my Pinpoint pH Meter probes), set to a rather low air rate -- enough to make a very small, gentle boiling effect, with air coming moderately from all sides of the limewood, but not a roiling boil.
 
I wanted to more or less evenly divide the larvae between the two BRTs with as little shock or stress to them as possible, so I took the egg mass, which is more or less shaped like a very large contact lens about 2" across, and literally cut it in half with a pair of scissors.  Rather than using a tumbler, I simply put the egg mass directly in the BRT, under the bright light, and manually agitated the two halves of the egg mass until the larvae started hatching.  After a few minutes under the light, they started to hatch very readily when the egg mass was jiggled or poked at by my fingers.  Sometimes I would pinch it by the very edge and shake it back and forth in the water, and other times, I would just keep it suspended in the water by jostling it and smacking it gently back and forth with my fingers.  Both techniques seemed to induce hatching.  After about 1/2 hour or so, all of the eggs, except for a very few, had hatched, so I removed what remained of the egg mass halves.
 
I then put eggcrate with a few layers of paper towels on top of the BRTs under the lights to give filtered light and called it a night.
 
Examining both BRTs this morning, I do find a few dead larvae on the bottom of both, but very few, and no real difference between the two in number.  During a casual examination of the live larvae done by scooping out a beakerful and checking them with a magnifying glass, it appears to me that I can see more full bellies in the copepod larvae than the rotifer larvae, but I'm not really sure.  I will be adding more rotifers to the rotifer BRT in a few minutes.
 

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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Saturday, April 6, 2013 9:18 PM
Oh, please keep us updated! This is going to be interesting! 
 
How do you like the seedling starter heaters? Are you using a 17 gallon tub or something smaller?
check out Kathy's Clowns, llc website:
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JimWelsh
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Saturday, April 6, 2013 10:55 PM
Will do, Kathy!
 
I like the seedling heaters very much, for their gentle heat and very thin profile that lets me slip them under the BRT, but I really need two of them to keep the BRT up to the 79-80 F temperature I am shooting for.  EDIT:  My BRTs are TuffTubs model KMB104, which has a listed capacity of 15 gallons.  In this case, I found the temp to be 76-77 F this morning, so I added about 15 watts more heat to each BRT using those flat micro/mini/fishbowl heaters that Hydor makes that have no light, and after just a couple of hours, the temperature of both BRTs had stabilized at 79-80 F, right where I want them.
 
The copepod larvae are definitely eating.  I can see their full bellies.  I'm sure that the rotifer larvae are eating, too, but I can't as easily see it.  Most of them still look translucent to me, whereas the copepod larvae almost all have distinctly opaque bellies.
 
I added another 2 liters worth of sieved rotifers to the rotifer BRT, and also 20 more drops of RotiGreen Omega, and about 2 ml more ClorAm-X solution.  The copepod BRT got about 100 ml more Isochrysis and about 1 ml more ClorAm-X solution.
 
<message edited by JimWelsh on Sunday, April 7, 2013 2:03 AM>

JimWelsh
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Sunday, April 7, 2013 2:06 AM
Tonight, just before going to bed, I added another 2 liters worth of sieved rotifers to the rotifer BRT, and also another 2 liters worth of sieved Parvocalanus (far fewer copepods than rotifers caught in the sieve) to the copepod BRT.  I also added another 100 ml of Isochrysis to the copepod BRT, and another 1 ml of ClorAm-X solution to both BRTs.  At 24 hours, both tubs are looking very good.

JimWelsh
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Sunday, April 7, 2013 11:24 PM
OK, it's official.  There is definitely something wrong with my Pseudochromis larvae + rotifers + RotiGreen Omega + ChlorAm-X protocol.  This morning, there were a few dead larvae in the copepod BRT, but there were a LOT of dead larvae in the rotifer BRT.  The water had cleared considerably, and the rotifers were still a little thin, so I dripped in a liter of RO/DI water with about 40 drops of RGO and about 3 ml of the CAX solution.  I also added in about 2 liters more worth of sieved rotifers.  As of this evening, there are some, but quite few fry left alive in the rotifer BRT.  The water is nice and green, and the rotifer density is nice and high -- certainly greater than 20 / ml.
 
Meanwhile, the main problem I have in the copepod BRT is keeping the copepod density high enough.  I do have probably about 100 or so dead fry that I need to siphon out, but compared with the rotifer BRT, this mortality/survival rate is like 10/90 compared to 90/10.  I see lots of very full guts on the copepod larvae, and the number of copepods is clearly being depleted.  I have sieved about 3 more gallons worth of Parvocalanus culture through the new 27 micron sieve I made today (yay!) and have added that into the BRT.  Because the copepods are being eaten by the larvae more quickly than they are eating the phytoplankton and producing nauplii, the phytoplankton density is staying high, and I don't need to add any more phyto at this point.
 
Back to the problems with the rotifer protocol:  There is not a lot that I can think of that could be the source of my problems, but the #1 thing I suspect is that my RotiGreen Omega is simply too old.  I checked my records, and I ordered the 1 liter bag just over a year ago, on 3/21/2012.  It has been kept frozen all the time since I received it, except on those occasions when I have thawed some of it to pour out into a smaller container for use.  When i do thaw it, I thaw it fairly quickly by putting the frozen bag into about 1 gallon of very warm water, and after just a few minutes, I have enough thawed to pour some out.  I always use these 60 ml plastic sample tubes I get from work, so I am only pouring out 60 ml at a time, and then I fold the top of the bag over a couple of times, close it with a clothespin, and put the bag right back into freezer.  The only opening in the bag is a small slit I cut with scissors very near the top, and none of the thawing warm water ever makes it back into the bag.  EDIT:  I forgot to specify that I've probably done this thaw some / pour some off / refreeze thing about 5 times in the last year.

The only other thing I can think of is that I am simply both overdosing the RotiGreen and underdosing the ClorAm-X for the rotifer load I have.  I do strive to keep the BRT water noticably tinted (here I go with these descriptions that are useless for actually quantifying things), and whenever the water goes close to clear, I add more.  I've been documenting in this journal (and also in my P. tapeniosoma journal) how much of each the RGO and also the CAX solution I've been adding.  As a reminder, the CAX solution is 12 tsp. of powdered ChlorAm-X to 1 liter of RO/DI water.

I guess one more theory I can come up with is that the number of larvae is simply too great for the volume.  That is part of the reason that I (A) split this batch between two BRTs and also (B) increased the initial volume from 5 gallons to 8 gallons on this run.  I have noticed that there does tend to be a fairly dramatic die-off at about 48 hours, but the population of survivors after the die-off tends to more-or-less stabilize.  In other words, I lost 90% of them today, but of the 10% remaining, I expect to have at least 90% of those still alive tomorrow.

Anybody have any ideas or suggestions?  I'm all ears....
 
 
<message edited by JimWelsh on Sunday, April 7, 2013 11:38 PM>

Fishtal
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Sunday, April 7, 2013 11:58 PM
If I'm understanding what you're saying, you are thawing and re-freezing the RGreen over and over? I only cut off a chunk at a time and thaw it slowly in the fridge before using it. 
<message edited by Fishtal on Monday, April 8, 2013 12:17 AM>
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JimWelsh
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Monday, April 8, 2013 12:16 AM
Yes, except that it is RotiGreen Omega, not RotiGrow, and I don't thaw the whole bag, just barely enough to pour out what I need.  Yes, there always is some thawed product that is re-frozen, but as little as possible.

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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Monday, April 8, 2013 12:18 AM
I was advised to thaw it slowly. Only takes a couple of hours in the fridge.
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Monday, April 8, 2013 12:44 AM
Quote Originally Posted by Fishtal

I was advised to thaw it slowly. Only takes a couple of hours in the fridge.

 
OK, fair enough.  But is thawing it quickly going to make it lethal?  I understand that there is a concern with these preserved algae products of "cell clumping", and perhaps a quick thawing method causes this "cell clumping", which may make the product less likely to stay in suspension, and/or less likely to be eaten by the rotifers, and in both cases, more likely to settle out and/or decompose.  Perhaps the problem is as simple as that?
 
Re-checking the Reed Mariculture website page for RotiGreen Omega here:  http://www.reedmaricultur...ct_rotigreen_omega.php I don't see any instructions about thawing it, but I do note that it says, "May require special care when fish are inflating air bladder", which is interesting, but doesn't give me any actionable information.  I wonder what that "special care" might be?  I did check the pages for RotiGreen Nanno and RotiGreen Iso, and that air bladder caveat does not appear on those pages.  Maybe this issue, whatever it is, is the problem I am encountering?  I don't know exactly when Pseudochromis larvae inflate their air bladders, but *if* this is the issue, it might explain why the problem tends to stablilze, and the survivors of the first big die-off tend to stay alive?  I don't really know -- it's just my conjecture.  I chose RotiGreen Omega simply because it sounded like it had a better overall DHA/EPA/ARA balance, but perhaps I would be better off with just RotiGreen Nanno.
 
 

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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Monday, April 8, 2013 12:50 AM
I'd check with Gresh to get the complete reasoning behind thawing methodology.
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Monday, April 8, 2013 12:53 AM
I'll draw his attention to this thread.

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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Monday, April 8, 2013 8:31 AM
I seem to recall that Gresh said that the product begins to deteriorate after the first thaw, and the freezer life only refers to the product if it arrives frozen and is never thawed until use.
 
I think the last order of this arrived frozen, but all previous ones arrived already liquid, as they warmed up during shipping.  For the last one, I did thaw it, pour it into 3 oz travel bottles, and re-freeze. To use, just grab a bottle from the freezer and thaw in the fridge.  Handy top allows dropwise administration.
 
For a 15 gallon BRT, I've been using about 1 ml per day to keep rotifers in a decent population for my gobies. I am lighting 24/7, and I have some live isochrysis in there to hopefully mop up some ammonia, and I have a lawn of something green lining the tank, but what I don't seem to have at the moment is ammonia.  The tank has been running for 2 weeks.  I don't know, but I suspect you may be adding too much rotiGreen.
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Monday, April 8, 2013 2:55 PM
Quote Originally Posted by KathyL


I seem to recall that Gresh said that the product begins to deteriorate after the first thaw, and the freezer life only refers to the product if it arrives frozen and is never thawed until use.

I think the last order of this arrived frozen, but all previous ones arrived already liquid, as they warmed up during shipping.  For the last one, I did thaw it, pour it into 3 oz travel bottles, and re-freeze. To use, just grab a bottle from the freezer and thaw in the fridge.  Handy top allows dropwise administration.

For a 15 gallon BRT, I've been using about 1 ml per day to keep rotifers in a decent population for my gobies. I am lighting 24/7, and I have some live isochrysis in there to hopefully mop up some ammonia, and I have a lawn of something green lining the tank, but what I don't seem to have at the moment is ammonia.  The tank has been running for 2 weeks.  I don't know, but I suspect you may be adding too much rotiGreen.

I'm afraid since I'm not exactly connected at the hip with Instant Algae products like I am Reef Nutrition and APBreed, that I only know what is told to me when I ask.  Quite often I am behind the times and continue to repeat old information, like I did with the "don't aerate your rotifer cultures too much" bit years ago.
 
Since this thread was emailed to our tech support email, we'll get the full download on best practices of handling these products.  Give us a few days to respond though, things are hectic here right now with a massive IT upgrade.

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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Tuesday, April 16, 2013 2:11 AM
It has been over a week since I updated this journal.  No word yet from Reed, but I do think I have some additional information that makes me think my failures have nothing at all to do with their products, or how they are being handled by me.  Book lovers, I have a new tome for you coming:
 
There was another spawn last Monday, one week ago.  That spawn hatched on Friday night.  The whole hatch went into one BRT, filled with about 10 gallons of broodstock tank water.  They were fed ample rotifers -- enough to give about 20/ml density in the BRT -- that had been grown were RGcomplete, and were nice and very dark green when sieved out of the rotifer culture.  I tinted the BRT water very lightly this time with RotiGrow Omega, and all of the other parameters (air, light, temperature) were the same as the previous rotifer BRT.  By the second day (Sunday), I already had massive die-off -- well over 50%.  Similar to the previous die-off events, the survivors seemed to do fairly well, with relatively little die-off once the initial massacre is over.
 
Now, the BRT used for this new batch is the same BRT as the one used for the previous rotifer batch.  There just weren't enough of the previous rotifer BRT larvae left to be concerned with, and I needed the tub for the new hatch, so I sacrificed the few remaining larvae for the cause.
 
Meanwhile, the larvae in the copepod BRT have certainly done better than the rotifer BRT larvae from the earlier hatch.  I did still get a pretty big dieoff on the morning of Day 3 with them, though.  I think in this case, one contributing factor was starvation -- they had eaten more or less all of the Parvocalanus I had fed them.  Accordingly, I immediately started feeding them copious rotifers, too.  I had virtually no more deaths in this BRT after that, until I started adding NHBBS (see below).  Nonetheless, I do seem to be very consistently getting a very large dieoff somewhere between 36 and 60 hours post hatch, with very great consistency, with both my P. cyanotaenia and also the P. tapeinosoma hatches I've worked with.  I'm starting to think there is something fundamentally flawed with my approach to larviculture that is the root cause of this.
 
Now, bear in mind that although I have a big pile of MBI points and a shiny medal and all that -- most of what I got those points for are things other than conventional "fish larvae raised with rotifers and BBS in a BRT" kind of things.  Heck, my clownfish success stories have been entirely unremarkable in terms of survival rates.  So the first thing I need to acknowledge and learn from is that I have very little experience and even less success at basic larviculture.  In fact, so far, it is pretty easy to construct an argument that I pretty much suck at it.
 
I have spent a lot of the last week re-reading Moe's "Breeding the Orchid Dottyback" book, and in particular, Chapter 8, "The Great Run!".  I have also done a lot of reading of the forum posts of others who have been successful at raising various species of dottybacks, both here on MBI and also on another moribund breeding forum.  A few things stand out, for me (not in any particular order).
 
First, the basic idea that proper DHA enrichment of foods is essential at certain stages of larval development for dottybacks.  Without it, failure is almost guaranteed.  Second, Moe's emphasis on the importance of really good nutrition during the first day or so being very key for long-term survival of the larvae.  Third, the importance of introducing small amounts of NHBBS and/or enriched BBS early -- certainly by day 8 -- and then weaning the larvae off of rotifers and onto the larger food gradually over the next few days.  Fourth, Moe's usage of "wild plankton" at various stages, primarily as a source of DHA enrichment (I think), but also as a source of larger food items, too.  Fifth, the degree to which larvae, even several day old larvae are susceptible to various forms of "shock", including but not limited to the "shock" from dripping water and/or food in from too great a height, or any other mechanical disturbance.  Sixth, is the emphasis on antibiotics to control bacterial growth, especially once Artemia are introduced.  Seventh, is the importance of regular water changes to keep water quality high.

Since I still have somewhere between 50 and 100 larvae from the copepod BRT batch described earlier in this journal, I have been working hard to apply the things I have learned to try to keep them alive.  I have been doing roughly 15-25% water changes more or less daily for the last week (these should probably be larger still).  When "dripping" in the WC water and/or more live Iso or diluted RotiGrow Omega, I have been submerging the drip line, placing it right below the airstone, to prevent any "drip, drip" shock, and to also maximize the degree to which the new water is being mixed with the old.  I have been making sure that the water stays tinted with live Isochyrsis (high in DHA), while also adding something like about 10-15 drops per day of RotiGreen Omega, together with some ClorAm-X solution, at about a 2:1 ratio of CAX to RGO.  I started adding NHBBS -- but VERY, VERY few -- on day 7, and have been enriching the BBS with Dan's Feed, hatching new BBS each day, and adding small but increasing amounts of both NHBBS and day-old enriched BBS, each day.  I started adding Kanamycin at the same time as the Artemia, according to the instructions on the Kanamycin label.  I did see the first deaths in several days right after adding the NHBBS.  Today, at the end of Day 10, the remaining larvae (50 to maybe 100 of them, but more likely closer to 50) are larger and stronger than any I've ever seen at Day 10 before.  I also added a bunch of Apocyclops and Parvocalanus this evening.

Early last year, when the P. tapeinosoma were first hatching for me, I had a private email exchange with both Matts (Pedersen and Wittenrich), and I have also re-read that email thread this last week.  A few things stand out from Dr. Wittenrich's comments.  First, he suggested that early dieoff may be due to transfer stress in the handling of the eggs/larvae during hatch, and made some suggestions to more gently treat the eggs and newly hatched larvae to avoid transfer stress.  Upon reflection, I think that perhaps my hatch induction method may be causing excessive "transfer stress", and may very well be the cause of my consistent massive dieoffs in the 36-60 hour period, despite numerous other variables.  He also suggested that I could be exhausting them with excessive air through an airstone, and made the recommendation to have only a single bubble in the water column at once through an open-ended airline.  This is a recommendation that I have not yet followed.
 
I still have a lot to learn about more gently treating these delicate little souls entrusted to me!  The parents have not yet spawned as of today, but have seemed "ready" for the last two days, so perhaps tomorrow is the next spawn day for them.  I'm just hoping that they will continue to give me chances.
 
Meanwhile, I don't have a lot of hope for the most recent batch -- I think I've doomed the survivors of the first big dieoff with excessive caution and just too little enrichment of their rotifers with too little RotiGreen Omega -- they are just looking too thin and weak to me.  I'm cooking up a big batch of Parvocalanus, and also Apocyclops and Acartia in preparation for the next batch, though, and, as usual, have a plentiful supply of live Isochrysis.
 
I'll also do everything I can to keep the momentum going with the 50-100 10 day olds I have right now, who are looking so good at the moment.

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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Saturday, April 20, 2013 1:10 AM
Now, at 14 DPH, I still have about 25 or so larvae.  The size range is rather striking -- some are very large, and some are still relatively quite small, and others spread out in between.  I've been feeding them NHBBS and Enriched BBS a couple of times a day.  I stopped supplementing rotifers about two days ago.  I've been doing water changes of between 25 and 50 percent every day or every other day, depending on my time constraints.  Adding Kanamycin daily.  Adding about 10 to 15 drops of RotiGreen Omega + ClorAm-X solution and a modest amount of live Isochrysis with the water changes.  I have also been feeding them as many Apocyclops as I can come up with for them about every other day.

I seem to have missed a spawn this week -- on Saturday and Sunday, the male was flashing his glowing colors, and the female looked really plump, but whenever I opened the gate, no joy.  By Monday, she was thin again, and the male was drab again, but I never saw any eggs.  She is looking plump again now, and the male is starting to glow again, so maybe I'll get another spawn this weekend.

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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Saturday, April 20, 2013 7:52 PM
The female was plump, and hanging out at the divider, and the male was flashing his bright colors, and also hanging out at the divider today, so at about 11:00 AM, I opened the gate, and within just a few seconds, both were in the male's PVC "den of love".  After about 20 minutes, they had finished spawning, and once again, the female did not leave the egg ball in the PVC cave, but, rather, it came attached ever so slightly to her, so that it ended up on the bottom of the tank on the male's side.  The male and I have an established ritual now, since this happens every time:  I gently pick up the egg ball with a turkey baster, just holding it in the end of the baster tube, instead of sucking it up into the tube, and I wave it around at the entrance to the PVC cave.  The male then grabs it, and with a very gentle squeeze, I release it to him, and he then places it at the back of the cave where it belongs.

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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Saturday, April 20, 2013 9:00 PM
Quote Originally Posted by JimWelsh


Quote Originally Posted by Fishtal

I was advised to thaw it slowly. Only takes a couple of hours in the fridge.


OK, fair enough.  But is thawing it quickly going to make it lethal?  I understand that there is a concern with these preserved algae products of "cell clumping", and perhaps a quick thawing method causes this "cell clumping", which may make the product less likely to stay in suspension, and/or less likely to be eaten by the rotifers, and in both cases, more likely to settle out and/or decompose.  Perhaps the problem is as simple as that?

Re-checking the Reed Mariculture website page for RotiGreen Omega here:  http://www.reedmaricultur...ct_rotigreen_omega.php I don't see any instructions about thawing it, but I do note that it says, "May require special care when fish are inflating air bladder", which is interesting, but doesn't give me any actionable information.  I wonder what that "special care" might be?  I did check the pages for RotiGreen Nanno and RotiGreen Iso, and that air bladder caveat does not appear on those pages.  Maybe this issue, whatever it is, is the problem I am encountering?  I don't know exactly when Pseudochromis larvae inflate their air bladders, but *if* this is the issue, it might explain why the problem tends to stablilze, and the survivors of the first big die-off tend to stay alive?  I don't really know -- it's just my conjecture.  I chose RotiGreen Omega simply because it sounded like it had a better overall DHA/EPA/ARA balance, but perhaps I would be better off with just RotiGreen Nanno.



 
Swim bladder issue is the oil slick that can be seen on the surface with the Omega product.
 
Thawing issue, you nailed it.  More likely to clump if thawed quickly.  Clumps are not eaten by rots and add to over all waste.

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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Sunday, April 21, 2013 2:55 AM
Thank you, Grehsam, although I think at this point that my main issues have more to do with early handling of the larvae, as stated above, rather than any issues with feeds, since I have had similar mortality at about 48 hours with both the RotiGreen Omega larvae and the copepod/live Isochrysis larvae.  Nonetheless, I'll take the Reed product handling into account in the future.  Thanks again!

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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Sunday, April 21, 2013 10:11 AM
Quote Originally Posted by JimWelsh
The male and I have an established ritual now, since this happens every time:  I gently pick up the egg ball with a turkey baster, just holding it in the end of the baster tube, instead of sucking it up into the tube, and I wave it around at the entrance to the PVC cave.  The male then grabs it, and with a very gentle squeeze, I release it to him, and he then places it at the back of the cave where it belongs.

 
This is quite cute! 
 
Quote Originally Posted by JimWelsh
Early last year, when the P. tapeinosoma were first hatching for me, I had a private email exchange with both Matts (Pedersen and Wittenrich), and I have also re-read that email thread this last week.  A few things stand out from Dr. Wittenrich's comments.  First, he suggested that early dieoff may be due to transfer stress in the handling of the eggs/larvae during hatch, and made some suggestions to more gently treat the eggs and newly hatched larvae to avoid transfer stress.  Upon reflection, I think that perhaps my hatch induction method may be causing excessive "transfer stress", and may very well be the cause of my consistent massive dieoffs in the 36-60 hour period, despite numerous other variables.  He also suggested that I could be exhausting them with excessive air through an airstone, and made the recommendation to have only a single bubble in the water column at once through an open-ended airline.  This is a recommendation that I have not yet followed.

 
Jim, this is very interesting, and I think this is the trouble I am having with my P fridmani larvae.  A person would think the culture methods would be quite similar for the two.  Have you had any success with other Pseudochromis?  If I remember correctly, you didn't have complete success with P tapeinosoma...?
Don't let fear and common sense stop you! =]

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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Sunday, April 21, 2013 12:31 PM
Actually, I've had similar failure with both species of Pseudochromis that I've worked with.  I'm expecting another hatch on Wednesday night, so I'll get a chance to try a more gentle hatch approach, and see how that goes.

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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Tuesday, April 23, 2013 1:16 AM
Last night, on Day 16, I noticed a large number of the remaining larvae were "nosing" into either the side and/or the bottom of the BRT.  I don't know what the cause of this was.  I thought it might be that the water was not "green" enough, so I did a water change, and dripped in more RotiGreen Omega and also more live Isochrysis.  I also reduced the light, and even went so far as to give them their first "night" with the lights off on the BRT ever since hatch.
 
I awoke to a large dieoff.  Many dead larvae, many of them some of the larger ones, on the bottom of the BRT.  I do still have perhaps 10 or so alive.  I have added some Tigriopus today, and even noticed at least one larvae with a very dark gut this evening, which I interpret as it eating the Tigriopus.  The remaining live larvae still are acting very sketchy, and very "afraid" of the light.  I continue to keep them in subdued light, and I am dripping in more RotiGreen Omega + ChlorAm-X + Live Iso tonight.
 
At the very least, I have gotten some of them to 17 days.  It appears that I might have some still alive tomorrow, which will be 18 days, which is 5 days longer than I have gotten any dottybacks before.
 
The male is tending the egg mass in his cave nicely, and I still anticipate a nice hatch on Wednesday night.
 

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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Tuesday, April 23, 2013 9:28 PM
Jim, the way your light is setup can they get away from it if they choose?  Like, light half of it only?  That way they can choose their lighting.
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Tuesday, April 23, 2013 11:25 PM
Yes, the light is over just one half of the tank.  Re-reading Moe's "Breeding the Orchid Dottyback" today, it appears that they are likely just becoming more benthic as meta approaches.
 
Unlike yesterday, this morning there were no new dead larvae.  I still have around 10 remaining.  Most of them are hanging out near the bottom and/or the sides of the BRT.  Some of the larger ones tend to do "laps" around the BRT -- strangely, all of them in a counter-clockwise direction -- and appear to be quite strong, and have noticeable dark guts, presumably from the Tigriopus.  There are plenty of BBS, which are kept enriched by the greenwater, and I also added some more Dan's Feed enriched BBS this morning.  The Tigriopus are plentiful, and are most prevalent near the bottom and sides, which may be part of the reason the larvae are hanging out there.  The larger ones are taking on a pinkish/purplish hue reminiscent of the color of the adult females.

I seem to recall reading in various journals that meta in Pseudochromis tends to be at around 28 days, but Moe was reporting it starting as early as day 20 for his P. fridmani "Great Run!".  I need to read some more Psuedochromis journals, and probably need to give them some PVC pipes now to hide in.

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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Friday, April 26, 2013 12:54 PM
Day 21 now for the 4/5/2013 hatch.  I counted 8 this morning -- a lot better than counting 0!  They are very much hugging the bottom and the sides, with an occasional larger one venturing out into the water column a bit.  They all have a dull pinkish/purplish hue.  None really look to me like they've started meta yet (though I don't know exactly what I'm looking for in Pseudochromis yet for signs of meta -- I'm told I'll know it when I see it).  I fed them a bunch of Tigriopus a few days ago, and the Tigriopus are more or less self-sustaining at this point.  I do add a few enriched BBS daily, too.  I'm pretty sure they are eating the copepods more than the BBS.   EDIT:  I did a small water change today, and examined some of the water I removed, and found plentiful Apocyclops, some Acartia, and even some Parvocalanus -- I forgot to mention that I also added some of each of those a few days ago, too, and they seem to also be plentiful in the water column.
 
The hatch Wednesday night turned out to be a total disaster.  I decided I wanted to try a more gentle hatching approach, so I used a 250 ml Ernlenmeyer flask with a rigid airline, like what was documented in Figure 3 here (scroll down just a bit):  http://www.advancedaquari...8/10/breeder#section-8 and that hatching technique did work very well, and did seem much more gentle that what I had done in the past.  The "disaster" I think, stemmed from the fact that I had too many water parameters too different from the parent tank water:  I added a bunch of copepods together with their culture water to the BRT before hatching.  The copepod culture water is very clean, but at a significantly lower SG than the parent tank water.  I also added a decent amount of live Isochrysis prior to hatching, which would have raised the pH.  I also added a very large number of enriched rotifers -- perhaps too many, and maybe they consumed all the oxygen?  At any rate, I awoke to 100% mortality.
 
I sure do suck at this!
 
<message edited by JimWelsh on Friday, April 26, 2013 2:11 PM>

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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Friday, April 26, 2013 7:29 PM
Don't beat yourself up. Sometimes they just don't hatch well, and there is nothing you could have done.
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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Tuesday, May 7, 2013 1:23 PM
After waiting, and waiting, and then waiting some more, I FINALLY have some signs of settlement, starting yesterday, at 31 days!  A couple of them started developing a much more reddish/maroon color, and stopped swimming fast laps, and began hunting off of the bottom and the sides, and started being interested in the PVC pipes and elbows.  I haven't lost any in well over a week .  For the last week, all of them have been racing around the BRT, doing fast laps, with only very momentary pauses to strike at a copepod or BBS.  Strangely, they all ALWAYS go counterclockwise, making constant left-hand turns (they must all be race car drivers)!  The largest ones are now finally bucking that trend as they start to settle.  Checking this morning, there is at least one that I'm calling settled, since it is definitely taking up residence in one of the PVC pipes.
 
As much time as they have been spending racing around, they somehow have still been managing to more or less clear the BRT of the enriched BBS regularly.  I've been adding more enriched BBS twice daily.  I have also been doing some water changes, but not so regularly -- 25-30% every 2-3 days.  I add more live Iso when I do the water changes, but no more RotiGreen or Kanamycin.  The water is staying nice and "green" (really rather brown) from the Iso.  The Tigriopus, Acartia, and Apocyclops populations are staying high, although I have had to add some more Tigriopus, as they seem to be the favorite food of the largest larvae.  Curiously, when I scoop out a beaker of water to examine the zooplankton population, I am seeing more Acartia than I am Apocyclops, which is not what I would expect.
 
The parents continue to attempt to spawn, but I've had no joy, since every time the female is really ripe and ready, when I open the gate between them, the male gets overly excited, and comes over onto the female's side, which then makes her angry, so she starts to attack him, and then when he retreats, if she ventures onto his side, he alternates between leading her to his cave and attacking her, and they just get plain mean to each other.  I've tried giving them opportunities at various times of the day, but they still haven't worked things out.  Each time, I end up finding the eggs on her side, often being eaten by her, or hung up on the zip ties holding her PVC cave tubes together.  One reliable way to tell when she is ready to spawn, aside from her full belly visibly white with eggs, is the male's dramatic change in color.  I'll have to post a picture of that soon, because it really is dramatic to see.  His eyes even glow so brightly, you can see it from across the room!

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Re:Breeding Journal, Species: Pseudochromis cyanotaenia - Tuesday, May 7, 2013 3:12 PM
It is very hard to get a good image of the male when he is showing his colors, because he is always really excited, and moving very quickly when that is happening.  I have to use the flash, which creates problems of its own, but here is one shot of him that doesn't really do justice to how bright he gets, but you might be able to get the idea.  Sorry for the dirty tank.
 

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