Hatch issues?

I'm having issues with hatching clownfish eggs. This is happening with both my ocellaris, and tomato eggs. They are laid on a pvc segment or tile. I pull them 10 days after spawning and keep them in a BRT @ 82 degrees F with an airstone blowing over the eggs, but they always fail to hatch. There are usually two larva the next morning and the remainnig eggs turn white and fall off over the next few days. This has happened with multiple clutches from 3 different pairs. I have a significant amount of air blowing over them, so I doubt that is the problem. I saw this growing on my clutch of eggs today, is this some kind of fungus?   Any ideas as to what is causing this? Would something like a methylene blue dip help prevent this?

That stuff growing is definitely not normal. Do you feed a lot of brine/shrimp/krill to the broodstock? The shrimp provide chitin which if overfed can make the egg casings too tough. On hatch day can you see any eye movement in the eggs?

They're fed flake/pe mysis.

Other than the fungus the eggs look to be well developed. Some people will dip the eggs in a dilution of MBlue or H2O2 to help prevent fungus.

http://www.fishtalpropagations.com/#!home/mainPage
"Making captive breeding easier."

temp at 80 degrees feed the mom and dad 3 times a day with rods food breeders and fish only alternating pull the eggs on the night of the 8th day and run air bubbles acrost them not to much and not to hard just to move them you also need to black out the tank i mean black not one speck of light leave blacked out for 2 hours then puff you got eggs your having a water issue temp issue but it sounds like a nutriton issue stop the pe m and flakes rods food 3 times a day and you will be golden

You could try leaving 1 nest with the parents and see if it develops normally.

he could but they might eat them before oodeniam killed all my spawning pairs i hatched 5 batches a day most days just feed feed feed salt at .22 .23 temp at 80 81 and the night of day 8 black it out trust me i learned from dave withing a week of changing my salt and temp and feeding levels i had baby tomatoes and oc and true perks the first time and i still have a few of them in a tank in my room

and stop with thoes shiny smooth tiles thats why the eggs are falling off it needs a ruff ceramic back or better yet use a flower pot with a hole in the bottom thats what i use the eggs are getting that crap on it from lack of air and care use somthing other than that tile and you should be good from this point trust me and good luck

turn down the air and use a finer bubble looks like there getting beat up

Are you blacking out the hatching tank?  My ocellaris eggs will not hatch if there is even a stray ray of light seeping into the tank.

It doesn't matter if you use a shiny tile, a rough tile, or a flower pot.  The eggs will stick.  Besides, eggs falling off isn't the problem.
 
I agree that broodstock diet is important. Ocean nutrition formula one frozen is a favorite standby for me, when I am not feeding my own mash. You may have too much chitin (invertebrate shells) in the diet. Also it is important, particularly if you miss the hatch day too early, to have the water and container bleached and dechlorinated previous to the addition of the eggs.   Frequently, if I miss the hatch day too early, I'll add a few drops of methylene blue to the tank while I'm waiting for the eventual hatch. Just a faint tint of blue color, and the hatching larvae won't be harmed by it.  
 
Thank you for giving conditions of the hatch tank, but what are the conditions of the water in the broodstock tank? Do they match reasonably well? This can be a source of problems as well. If the broodstock temperature, for example is not at least 80 F, the hatch may be delayed because the eggs have not fully developed.
 
Hope this helps.
 

check out Kathy's Clowns, llc website:
http://kathysclowns.com
Captive bred clownfish and more
(Wholesale to the trade.)

Thanks for the advice guys! I don't think that it is a diet issue as they have been fed the same diet for years with success in raising larva. (they are in a classroom setting) I've also tried rods food breeders blend with no change. I've tried completely blacking out the BRT and still have problems. Broodstock conditions are similar with salinity at 32 ppt in both, but temperature in broodstock is slightly lower at 77 degrees F. Is this enough to affect hatching? I think I will leave the latest clutch in broodstock and see if they develop and hatch normally, if they don't, I will try a h202 or methylene blue dip.

A temp of 77°F will definitely slow down hatching time. I find tiles much easier to work with. Bubbling a curved surface effectively is more difficult to do than a flat one.
 

http://www.fishtalpropagations.com/#!home/mainPage
"Making captive breeding easier."

yes 77 is to cold and if you use a pot a curved suface is just as easy to airate as a tile just need a aqualifter to swirl the water putting the inlet in a brine syfter cup to prevent babys from getting sucked up dave the clownhouse guy showed me that and said that a shiny finished surface is not as good as a dull course suface but it sounds like your doing everything rite but the temp keep it at 80 81 in both brrodstock and larvel tanks good luck man

Ok hopefully I can just bring broodstock temps up, and solve my problem. I'm using a long (4 in) flexible airstone, and usually find it easier to just put it into the pvc, than try to aerate eggs on a tile, but I'm not sure about the appropriate amount of air. I'll post a video tomorrow. Is it possible I'm blasting them with too much air?

If you're getting fungus I'd suspect too little aeration. If eggs are being blown off the tile then they're getting too much.

http://www.fishtalpropagations.com/#!home/mainPage
"Making captive breeding easier."

Do whatever Tal says.

I've never heard/seen of too much aeration on eggs
But my eggs have very often turned bad because of not enough aeration

Too much aeration can damage the eggs. Bouncing them around too much is like a concussion. As you've seen, too little aeration allows fungus to set in. Overall, healthy eggs are pretty tough. Finding a balance is key to proper aeration/incubation. Leaving the eggs with the parents as long as possible has provided the best results for me. 

http://www.fishtalpropagations.com/#!home/mainPage
"Making captive breeding easier."

Ok temp is up to 80, and I'm leaving this nest in with the parents, we'll see if they develop normally with higher temps and the parents taking care of them. Time to do some research on collecting larva.

Good luck! If they are the only fish in the tank, collecting them is easy. Wait until the lights go out on the night of hatch, then put a light up. They swim to it, and you scoop them out with a cup! Easy peasy. 

http://www.suzysreef.com/

awsome take them out on the night of the 8th day and put them in a 10 gal blacked out with mom and dads water keeping temp the same if u put a heater in there put the bubble stone under the heater after the fry hatch out and add rotifers when you turn the light on a couple hours after blacking out the tank and add some green water to the water just a ml or so to keep the rotifers gut packed good luck get all your green water green omega and grow plus from reed mariculture

If they don't hatch on the 10th day, pull them on the 11th.  Sometimes my cinnamons would go 14 days before hatching and the parents would lay a new nest next to it, or on the rocks by the pot.  But that tank was generally at 76.  Higher temps... faster development.

www.clownhatchery.com

I went to collect on day 11,12,13, and 14, and I missed them when they hatched on 15. Five ebo jager 300w heaters and lots of rods breeders blend later I think I'm in business. Thanks for the help everyone!

man that is a lot of heaters. i have one 100 w and it can keep my tank at 81 with no problem. if i were you id invest in an interrrnal pump instead of an external one . same thing with skimmer . use the heat generated by them to warm your tank.

I know it seems like a ton, but I'm trying to stick to 3w/gallon. We have 1000w in our other 300 gallon system that barely keeps it at 80 even though the room is 75-76.

try using a space heater in the room and keep the room at like 83 as i do my 300w heaters almost never come on. In my hatchout tanks i dont use a heater the bulbs on the 1 peice lids plus my room temp keeps the fry at 81 the warmer the water the faster the eggs and fry grow my eggs hatch on day 7 all of them a friend had a heater go bad and heated the water to 89 and the eggs hatched on day5 haha