My first attempt at clownfish

So my first pair of broodstock clownfish spawned yesterday.  After months of waiting it finally happened! I was pretty happy.
 
So I know that the eggs will hatch from 7 to 10 days, depending a lot on temperature (I think..).  But how do I know when I should remove the flower pot they were laid on to the fry tub?  I plan to move them just before they hatch and gently bubble them until they hatch.  Once they hatch, I'll move the airline to the sponge filter I've been preparing all these long months.
 
Thanks

The color of the eggs will change.  First they will darken, then they will start to turn a silvery color, and right before hatching, they actually get kinda shiny and reflective from all those little fish eyes looking out at you!  It takes a bit of practice to learn what you are looking for.

I don't add the sponge filter until after the first week and the lavae have gone through settlement.

http://www.fishtalpropagations.com/#!home/mainPage
"Making captive breeding easier."

You don't have to worry about ammonia and that stuff before hand?  Even with all the rotifers in there?
 
Also, how long can the eggs survive with bubbling?  If I'm not sure if they will hatch in the next day/hours is it better to err on the early side and pull them out when I think it might be ready?
 
Thanks for your help.

The eggs won't survive long at all without bubbling. I "borrowed" some eggs from a friend of mine and must have had them a good twelve hours before hatch. So, at least that long with the bubbles.
 
A good bet is to start with the larvae in a relatively small volume of water and slowly add water until you are full and then start the sponge filter.

--Andy, the bucket man.
"Not to know the mandolin is to argue oneself unknown...." --Clara Lanza, 1886

Thanks for the info, now I can't wait to go get my tub and try it out!

To keep the parent fish spawning regularly, do I need to recreate their host/home as close to each other as possible?  
 
For example, I'm currently using a pot that I cut out the bottom and a side so that it stays in place and more current could go through.  Can I replace it with an uncut pot or even tiles?  Or would this disrupt them too much and they might stop spawning?

One thing to note is that the bubbles should really blast the eggs enough to have them move from the bubbles.  I usually keep the eggs in the 12 o-clock position of the clay pot, and put a large air stone as far into the pot as I can in the 6 o-clock position and have the bubbles hit the top of the clay pot without eggs first and then roll up over the eggs from their.  You will see that within 24 hours any eggs that didn't get hit well with the air bubbles will have turned white and died.  Good luck!

 
Should an airstone be used?  I was thinking of just using rigid airline tubing.

I use tiles as they are easier to aerate. An airstone spreads the bubbles out to aerate a wider area.

http://www.fishtalpropagations.com/#!home/mainPage
"Making captive breeding easier."

I have a pair that a lot of the times have a split hatch , some day 7 , and the rest day 8 . I have also had eggs in the larvae tank with aeration last 3 days before hatching.

How many days until you typically switch to baby brine shrimp?

I try never to switch to baby brine shrimp for anything. I'm not a fan. I'd much rather feed copepods and/or switch them to top-dressed Otohime and the frozen food I make.

--Andy, the bucket man.
"Not to know the mandolin is to argue oneself unknown...." --Clara Lanza, 1886

Which copepods do you use?  I only grow tisbe and tigriopus which I'm assuming the clown fish fry would have a hard time feeding on.
 
I don't know what Otohime is, I'll have to look it up.
 
I do make my own fish food jello mush, I can feed that to them? when can I start? Right after metamorphisis?

Is the otohime the reef nutrition stuff?

I use Apocyclops but I think they'd eat anything out in the water column of the right size. Here's the TDO:
 
http://apbreed.com/product_tdo_top_dressed_oto.php
 
As for the mush, I would not personally feed them anything with gelatin in it. Otherwise, I blend the heck out of it and feed whatever manages to pass through the right size mesh screens. Careful, though, as ammonia can shoot up fast once you start the non-live foods.

--Andy, the bucket man.
"Not to know the mandolin is to argue oneself unknown...." --Clara Lanza, 1886

Thanks for the info. 
 
What does gelatin do?  I've been feeding it to my broodstock.  Should I stop?

I think it's just my personal pet peeve. I find that most of my fish won't eat it. I wouldn't use it for larvae because you want the food to spread out into the water column and the gel keeps it all together.

--Andy, the bucket man.
"Not to know the mandolin is to argue oneself unknown...." --Clara Lanza, 1886

Well, I got some to hatch.  Here is a poorly made video of some of them.
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBcEFEZbqfU

Where is a good source to get a start of Apocyclops

Well, not me at the moment. I've let my cultures go until I get back from a summer trip. Maybe Jim could suggest someone? I don't think they are readily available from any commercial source, which is really too bad.

--Andy, the bucket man.
"Not to know the mandolin is to argue oneself unknown...." --Clara Lanza, 1886