Flexible Bubble Wand - Fry

Everyone knows that heaters can kill fry if they get too close. I saw this and thought this might be a solution to fry/heater problems. Wrap this sucker around your heater and add an airline, and the bubbles will keep the fish away from the heater. Do I have this backwards, would this suck the fry into the heater? I'm a little concerned by "micro bubble" but I'm sure there is something out there that gives bubble sizes similiar to a traditional airstone.
 
http://lubypet.en.alibaba...ir_vessel_HJS_330.html
 

The application of the air wand around the heater would probably work. It would help dissipate the heat produced as well has help keep the larvae directly off the heater.  The will obviously get pulled into the air flow when they get close enough.
 We use air rings around our brt drain screens to help keep the live food and larvae from being sucked onto the screen.  I would not worry about the fine bubbles. We haven't seen any obvious issues with them so far.  We worry about the bubbles being to large. 
 

I was looking at bubble rings. All i could find are too big for a wall mounted heater.

I had another idea for heater protection. A plastic heater guard covered in filter floss (similiar to rotifer floss) then with some bubbles.

I'm a minimalist. Usually things work better when you keep it simple.  You can make your own ring with a simple T connector and length of air line out of the material you are using for the ring. You can have one of two issues depending on your suggested set up 
ex. heater then guard then floss then air:  possible issue not enough dissipation of heat from the heater and melting of the guard and or premature cut off of the heater and the larval tank temperature will not be maintained to desired temp.
ex. heater then air then guard then floss: possible issue of floss clogging with debris and having the same issue as the first  example.
Both would as well create more work maintenance wise.
I am not sure how your system is set up but one possible solution is to have your laval tanks/brt partially submerged in a larger tank where the water is heated.  So if you have low or no water exchange in your larval tank that has temperature issues you can maintain several larval system temperature by having them in a regulated water bath.

I like this idea. I currently have a 50w reptile heating cord under my BRT, and it's not enough to maintain 82 degrees so I supplement with a 50w internal heater. I could put a smaller BRT in my current 15 gallon (low walled) BRT and heat that outside water so the fry are never exposed to a heater.
 
Agree on the above points on the heater guard.
 
I cannot visualize how that T will work. I ordered one of these, which is a little big.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2...ame=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://pentairaes.com/silicone-tubing-3-16.html
air line tubing used to make air ring. cut to size and make holes with a needle to make a bubbler out of the line.   and use 
http://www.freshwatersyst...x-316-id-x-316-id.aspx
to connect the line together to make a ring.

Awesome. I'm going to try that.

Unless you are working with larvae that I haven't tried, I think this is a solution in search of a problem.  People think the heater is killing their larvae because any dead bodies tend to accumulate in dead areas of the water flow, like under the heater or under the airstone.  There is no reason to think the heat killed them.  Place any other object in the tank and dead things will accumulate under or near it in the dead flow zone. Larvae can sense heat and swim away if they don't like it.  They are not attracted to the heater unless it is also a light source.  I put black electrical tape to block my heaters' light indicator, and I don't worry about too much heat.
On the other hand, putting a bubble source under a heater does help to distribute the heat and keep the temperature more even throughout the water, and that can't be anything but good.

check out Kathy's Clowns, llc website:
http://kathysclowns.com
Captive bred clownfish and more
(Wholesale to the trade.)

Also be wary of those flexible bubble want things.  They are made for freshwater, and contain a lead rope to weigh it down.  I'm afraid that might be toxic in saltwater.

check out Kathy's Clowns, llc website:
http://kathysclowns.com
Captive bred clownfish and more
(Wholesale to the trade.)

 
+1.  That's the voice of reason.

Thanks kathy. You just saved me some time and money.

I second what Kathy said, but I do have a solution for it... The Cobalt Neotherm heaters.  They don't have hotspots like glass heaters.  We use them in our CCS's here for trials and recommend them to anyone that needs heaters for larval systems.  

I've spoken to Cobalt in great length about the issues they had with (1) size of the Neotherms and that issue has been resolved.  I have never had a single issue with ours, or with any we have recommended.  

 
Agreed.  All my larvae tanks have bare heaters in them with intact red heating lights.  FWIW, larvae (like most aquatic critters) can't see red light anyway.  That's why people view their reef tanks at night with a red flashlight when looking for nasty critters - they don't react to the red light.

Don't let fear and common sense stop you! =]

I wrapped the outside of my BRT with two heating pads hooked to a controller.  By the way, the pads cost $13.00 new each so less than a standard heater. The heat is very consistent and stable with no hot spots or anything in the tank.  The only air is to my bubble ring around the central standpipe and filter.  I am new at this, but did a lot or research and one item I did hear a lot about was heaters in larval tanks.  My solution my not be necessary, but it inexpensive and very stable.

I like this idea very much. Stand alone heaters can get stuck on and overheat very readily. Your method is likely more reliable, and one can wrap insulation around the tub to conserve heat as well. Inexpensive and very stable, ++.  Thanks.
 

check out Kathy's Clowns, llc website:
http://kathysclowns.com
Captive bred clownfish and more
(Wholesale to the trade.)

We use drum heaters on our huge rotifer systems.

I would be concerned about water proofing the heating pads. last thing I need to do is splash and get electrocuted.

Drum heaters for plastic drums are too expensive for what I am doing.  I chose the heating pads as they are waterproof.  You can't be lying on a heating pad and spill your coke and die.  They are protected and then plugged into a GFCI.  Much less chance of a broken or shorted heater.

I wrapped my heat pads in a simple sheet.

Oh, for sure.  That's why I used the word huge  I doubt you have a need, or desire, to take care of a thousand liter super dense rotifer culture.  Heater pads for smaller systems is great.  I've gone that route for aquatic plants in various containers.